10 Reasons Why Now is the Time to Visit Ukraine
You know that feeling, that sort of nervous fluttery anticipation you get when you book a one-way plane ticket to a country you’ve never been to, never really thought about too much actually, and commit to spending three months of your life there, good or bad?
Oh, no?
Well, wandering through JFK at 11:30pm on a Thursday night in February, waiting for my midnight flight to Kiev, my stomach knotted with all sorts of excitement and anxiety and the fear that the mom with her two overtired toddlers would sit next to me on the ten-hour flight. I was headed to a country that many people consider a gray and cold post-Soviet war zone. I figured, if I really didn’t like the city that much I could just hunker down in my apartment and get some work done.
Provided Russia wouldn’t cut off the gas again.
But no such cold confinement was required. In fact, by the end of my three months in Kiev, I was completely enamored with the city and its people. I found it was safe to travel in Ukraine and that Europe’s biggest country was a delightful secret. And as I make my slow pilgrimage through Europe this summer, I’m making it my personal mission to spread the good news about Ukraine. If you need convincing, here are ten reasons why you should visit Ukraine – as soon as possible.
(A quick note: In my posts I choose the spelling “Kiev” as that is what most travelers use when researching. However, the transliteration from Ukrainian is “Kyiv,” an important distinction to note.)
1. Stunning non-Soviet architecture
For any country that had to suffer through the unfortunate function-over-form days of the Soviet Union, my expectations for noteworthy architecture are pretty low. Luckily, Ukraine is positively European.
Kiev seems to have as many churches as Angkor has temples. And you’d better bring some sunglasses because never in my life have I seen so much gold outside a building.
2. Ukrainian prices are outrageously cheap
If you’re looking for to travel Europe on a budget, book your flight to Ukraine. You can find hostels for less than $10, an entire apartment on Airbnb for $30 a night, opera tickets for about $8, lunch for under $5, coffee for a buck or two, admission to attractions $2-$3, cocktails from $4 up. Seriously, I had just spent three weeks in Mexico, and the prices in Ukraine were equivalent and sometimes even cheaper. For now at least, your dollars, pounds, and Euros will go a long way in Ukraine.
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3. It’s ok if you don’t speak Russian or Ukrainian
In Kiev, people were apologizing to me that they didn’t speak English, which was just ridiculous. I tried to apologize to them for not knowing Russian. (And I did take a crash course. By the end of my stay, I could say ‘hello’ so well people would fire back at me in rapid Russian, resulting in my eyes glazing over and my tongue feeling very heavy.)
When you walk into a restaurant or café or shop in Kiev, 75%-80% of the time you’ll find at least one person who speaks English. The rest of the time, you’ll get a smile and helpful service as you mime a lot and make a fool of yourself. That’s better than being stonewalled in Paris or St. Petersburg.
4. The food is pretty awesome
One night I ate a candle.
5. They’re literally making their history now
One afternoon my friends and I went on a self-guided walking tour I had downloaded from the Internet. As we wandered around the city center, we kept passing memorials. Being unable to read Cyrillic, we couldn’t understand what they were for, specifically, but guessed they were for the activists who had died in the 2014 revolution and those currently fighting in eastern Ukraine.
That night we went home and watched the mind-boggling documentary Winter on Fire, which showed Ukrainians get shot down on the very streets we had walked that day. And I realized that the man I had seen earlier touching a tree with a ribbon tied around it had been looking at the bullet holes still in the trunk.
There’s an energy and open-heartedness in Ukraine right now. The activities in Maidan weathered the Ukrainian winter, betrayal by their government, and murder to affect real change. Unfortunately, reforms happen slowly, answers aren’t easy, and disillusionment has seeped into many Ukrainians’ outlook. I don’t think they’re done with change yet, though. There’s a rawness there that’s inspired me more than any political movement in the US.
6. It’s a quirky place
I went to the Museum of Microminiatures, where an artist had created ultra tiny sculptures that you have to view through a magnifying glass, like a chess set that fits on the head of a pin. Why anyone would do this, I’m not sure, but it was jaw-droppingly impressive. He made a model of a ship that modern technology can’t even replicate.
Who would do that?
Kiev is also investing a lot into its public art, and as you wander around you’ll see dozens of forty-foot murals. Some will impress you, and others will impress you and make you say “What?”
7. It’s Europe without tourists
Europe and tourists go together like a summer picnic and invading ants. There are few places where you can get away from them (er, us) and sometimes it drives me a bit batty. But Kiev was blissfully free from tourists, and the times I heard English spoken on the street I ogled the people like I had never heard the language before. Tourist destinations like Odessa and Lviv definitely get more crowds, but you’ll still be the rare unicorn of an overseas visitor.
This lack of American tourists leads to what I lovingly call “The New York Effect.” Because Ukrainians are warm, friendly, inquisitive people, they will invariably ask where you are from. I had students burst out laughing when I said where I was from and demand to know why I would want to visit Ukraine, when I could be in New York (it has a lot to do with the price of cocktails). For younger Ukrainians, being from New York would add a magical shimmer to me.
I was at a café for lunch when one of the staff, a Ukrainian guy who couldn’t have been twenty yet, asked me where I was from.
“New York,” I said.
“Wow,” he said. And then blurted out, “You’re so beautiful!”
Hey, I’ll take what I can get. New York owes me.
8. Kiev’s craft cocktail culture
I love stupid fancy cocktails, pretentious concoctions with ingredients like elderberry nectar and gnome tears, and Kiev is serious about their cocktail game. Even the burger joint had a healthy list of craft cocktails.
In New York and Singapore and basically everywhere else in the world, cocktails are prohibitively expensive. But when the average cocktail costs between four and six dollars, I’m drinking fancy.
9. The Ukrainian people are wonderful
I was very fortunate, as a teacher, to meet a lot of Ukrainians. In one of my classes I had them describe the typical Ukrainian. They were very generous to themselves. According to them, they are friendly, funny, hard-working, and attractive. But I would say that’s all true and more.
They have a wry sense of humor, and one of their favorite answers to my questions is “Why not?”
(An answer that sometimes dead-ends a classroom discussion that is mainly meant to get them talking — but an effective answer indeed.
“Do you guys think the world is ready for a female President of the US?”
“Why not?”
“Because, well, you know, good point. I mean, I’m a feminist, I don’t want you guys to get confused, I’m just saying, you know…”
Blank stares from my students.)
I feel like I could be friends with (almost) all of them.
10. It will change
Others will discover Ukraine. The economy will recover. Effective reforms will take place and activism will die down. Starbucks will arrive.
And it will still be worthwhile to visit Ukraine. The people, who make this country so wonderful, will still be there. But to be there now, when the country is so open to visitors and conversation, when there are so few barriers between travelers and locals, is a staggering privilege.
London ten years from now will be basically the same as London today. Ukraine will not. Maybe now is the time you should go.
Get my insider advice on my Ukraine travel resource page! From Carpathian adventures to navigating the public transportation system, I’ve got you covered.
Have you ever been to Ukraine? Are you interested in going? Check out the Snapchat takeover I did for In Pursuit of Adventure to show why people should visit Ukraine. And feel free to leave any questions in the comments below!
45 Comments
Dominique
Ukraine is high on my list of countries to visit, even though most people don’t understand why. I tried to convince them by saying they have a very rich history and how I believe the architecture must be amazing. This doesn’t work… I’ll use your article to show them why I would like to go and I’ll stress point 8 about the cocktails; maybe I’ll even get them to join me 😉
All joking aside, I would love to check out Kiev. Have you visited other cities in the country?
Amy
I think people just have no idea about what Ukraine is like (I didn’t really before I came!). Whenever I show people my pictures they’re always floored. That’s why I’m on my little pro-Ukraine tourism mission. 🙂 If you get there I’m sure you’ll have a great time!
I also went to Odessa and Lviv while I was there. Lviv is amazing! Super cute city with tons of coffee shops and good restaurants and fun bars. Highly recommend it. Odessa was fun but not as special. We were there before the summer beach season really started, so it was a bit quiet. I’d like to go back to Odessa and give it a second go.
Diana
Glad to know language is not a problem! I mean I have been to many places I don’t speak the language but happy to see that they are so open and friendly to help you. Can’t wait to visit this wonderful place.
Amy
I hope you get a chance! Truly a wonderful city and some of the nicest people. Though I hope to learn a little more Russian when I go back in the fall. 🙂
Laura
To be honest, I haven’t considered visiting Ukraine at all. However, your post has changed that 🙂 maybe I should put it on my bucket list.
Amy
I honestly hadn’t thought about it much either before I went! I’m so glad now I’m able to share what a wonderful place it is. I hope you get a chance to visit it — it’s just as much worth visiting as many of the popular European countries! 🙂
Megan
I definitely agree with all parts except I’m a bit upset I never had a butter and garlic candle!?!? WHAT!??! This sounds like the best thing I could have ever put in my mouth.
Ukraine is changing so rapidly it amazes me. I was first there in 2011 and then back this year and I can’t explain to people how bad they need to travel there. It is, without doubt, one of my favorite countries.
Amy
The best thing about the candle was that no one believed we could eat it for like ten minutes. I had seen it in the menu, but I got so shot down that I, too, just watched it burn until the waiter came by and was like, “Um, are you guys going to eat that candle? Because you can.” 🙂
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Cody
Hi Amy,
Love your blog and how much you have written on Ukraine. I agree, it is a very misunderstood and misrepresented country. It has long been on my radar as I have always had an affinity for eastern Europe and have been fortunate to go as far east as Sarajevo (which I loved). So.. now, I have a week off coming this March, 2017. My partner unfortunately can’t take any time off and has no desire to visit Ukraine (sadly), so I’m using this as an opportunity to not only travel solo for the first time, but also finally see Ukraine! I guess for me, I am having a hard time pressing the go button and just going for it due to my preconceived notions of the country (which is probably just anxiety). I really want to visit – do you have any suggestions or tips for me coming there for 8 days by myself?
Amy
Cody,
Thanks for stopping by! You will have a fantastic time in Ukraine! The people are friendly and curious, the lack of tourists is enthralling, and the culture is multi-faceted. If you want Soviet history or medieval history or current events, Ukraine has it all. And don’t worry about the language barrier. I don’t speak Russian and I’m always able to communicate (sometimes with miming, haha), and many many people speak English, especially in the younger generations. It is a ridiculously affordable destination and a truly unique experience.
For an 8 day trip, I’d recommend focusing on Kiev and Lviv (especially if you’re interested in doing a Chernobyl visit. That’ll take a full day or two). Four or five days in Kiev will give you time to check out all the sights and dip into their foodie/cafe/cocktail scene (honestly, that’s been my main focus for the past three months and I’ve barely made a dent!). There are InterCity trains to Lviv (about 5 hours) as well as overnight trains. I’ve taken both kinds of trains throught Ukraine with others and by myself, no problems. Two or three days in Lviv would work — there’s not a lot to see but there’s so much to eat and so much coffee to sample! There are some castles in the area that you could see, but I’ve heard that it’s better to book a tour/guide because they are a bit spread out. If you really want to pack your trip full, you could take a detour from Lviv to Kamianets-Podilskyi. It’s a sleepy little town with an impressive castle, with Khotin fortress a relatively easy bus/taxi ride away. Kamianets-Podilskyi is only connected to Kiev by night trains, I believe.
The only ‘warning’ I have is about the weather. In March it will still be cold and gray. Definitely pack your woolen socks and bring an umbrella! But don’t let that put you off. I believe that Ukraine is going to explode with tourism in the future, and that this is one of the best times to visit, before it becomes overrun. If you have any other questions, feel free to ask!
Amy
Cody
Hi Amy,
Thanks for responding 🙂 I think you’ve probably sold me on Ukraine. I have been back and forth between Romania and Ukraine – but I want something truly off the beaten path and I think Ukraine really fits that. I think my ONLY reservation is safety (especially traveling alone for the first time) – do I have anything significant to worry about? What would be your safety tips after having lived there?
Cody
Amy
I find Kiev to be really safe. Like any big city, you want to be smart. Keep an eye on your things and be cautious if someone approaches you on the street (unless it’s a babushka. She’s probably just asking for directions). I’m sure there are dangerous part so the city, but I doubt you’ll go there. They also have Uber here, as well as the taxi app I use, Uklon, and I’d recommend those over flagging a taxi down on the street. But, honestly, no special tips, just the kind of common sense you’d use in any big city around the world. 🙂
Cody
Thanks for all your tips Amy, sounds like Kiev/Lviv would be a very good trip for me! Any interest in meeting up for a bit in Kyiv while I’m there?
Also check out my IG account: two.traveling.the.world
Amy
For sure! If you make it out here just let me know! I love meeting up with travelers and showing off the city. 🙂
Mary-José
Dear Amy
I discovered you just by chance. I’m going to LVIV for 10 days in the Easter holidays and you’ve given me some great ideas.I’m really looking forward to seeing it. Thank you for taking the trouble to advise people.
Mary-José
Amy
Mary-Jose, I’m glad you stopped by and that the article was helpful! If you’d like any other advice, just let me know. 🙂 Lviv is really great, and I’m sure you’ll have a wonderful time!
Andriy
Dear Mary-Rose,
If you want to ask some questions about Lviv – feel free to ask me.
I go to Lviv almost every weekend, so I know something about the city.
If you are interested – contact me: rewrite.andriy@gmail.com
Jean
Oh looks like a great place to explore. Budget friendly and some truly beautiful buildings!
Amy
Kyiv and western Ukraine has a lot of beautiful architecture! I’m not so into Brutalist architecture myself, but I know a lot of people who are big fans of the Soviet-era architecture that’s prevalent in eastern Ukraine. Either way, the buildings are something to look at for sure!
Katrina Luder
In all honesty I would never have thought to book a holiday to Ukraine. I had no idea it would be cheap either? It does look like a cool place to explore and sounds like a lot of fun!
Amy
It’s SO cheap! It’s like Southeast Asia cheap. I’m hoping to share more soon about just how affordable it is to visit Ukraine, though you can see from some of my posts on other cities my budget breakdowns to get a good idea.
Ticket to Adventures / Piia
Thank you for sharing this great post! I have know added Ukraine on my bucket list!
Amy
I hope you get to visit one day, Piia!
Darlene | PS+W
Was just talking with a friend about Ukraine the other day and glad I saw your blog post. I’m definitely keen to exploring the less touristy areas of Europe and i’ll be adding Ukraine to my list.
Amy
Darlene, yes, if you want non-touristy Europe than Ukraine is a great choice! Kyiv, Lviv, and Odessa all draw a fair number of tourists (especially from Europe), but I still find most Ukrainians are curious and surprised when I tell them where I’m from and that I’ve chosen to live here in Kyiv. And if you go to even less touristy places, like Kharkiv or Chernivtsi, you’ll definitely be off the beaten path!
Jurga
Such a refreshing look on Ukraine! I haven’t been since I was a kid, and honestly wouldn’t have thought of visiting any time soon either. But you show it in such a way that I might reconsider ;). Btw, it’s so smart of you to take a language course! After all, there is no better way to learn the country and its people, than by speaking their language. Oтлично сработано! 😉
Amy
The other day I told a taxi driver, “I only speak English” in Russian and he said, “Oh! Your accent is very good.” It’s only because I say that sentence five times a day. 😀 I try to use what little I know when I can, though!
Stella Marie Encina
lovely post! i always wanted to go to europe but it’s incredibly costly from my end. ukraine seems really interesting and you mentioned that people are great so that’s a huge plus! sometimes, the view don’t matter if the people you’re encountering aren’t accommodating at all!
Amy
Yes, traveling back and forth between the States and Europe is pretty expensive too — which is part of the reason why I rigged up a way to just live here. 🙂
Paulina
Wow your post really makes me want to travel to Ukraine. So far I haven’t considered it as a travel destinations, but your pics make it so inviting.
Ania
Thank you for writing such an informative post about visiting the Ukraine! I would definitely love to visit. Were you teaching English in Ukraine?
Amy
Yes, I’ve been teaching here for a bit over a year. Working with Ukrainian students is really great. They are (in general, of course), motivated, curious, hard-working, and all with a good sense of humor!
jin
OMG, loved this post! I was trying to get to Ukraine last summer but couldn’t fit it in my Eastern Europe travels, unfortunately. But I’m always dreaming of what could have been! Thank you for sharing!
Amy
Thanks for commenting, Jin! You’ll just have to come back to this part of the world soon! 🙂
Clare
I really want to visit the Ukraine and I might go next month, depends on the price of flights. I have just got back from eastern Europe, its a great part of the world and Ukraine is top of the list to see next. Seeing your photos makes me want to book the flight today 🙂
Amy
Always happy to motivate someone to visit Ukraine! Let me know if you end up coming — I’d be happy to provide some more tips or meet up for a coffee!
Anita
I have been to Ukraine a long time ago. I think I should revisit Kiev some time soon. Thanks for your great tips.
Amy
I’m sure it would be fascinating to see how it’s changed over the years! I went away for a week and a half and when I came back, I noticed so many different things. Definitely a dynamic city.
Sara
Okay I am obsessed with that blue church. It is amazing. I have heard such great things about Ukraine but haven’t had the chance to go there yet. This post made me want to go even more now.
Amy
Glad to be a little bit of inspiration! St. Michael’s is one of my favorite buildings in Kyiv. So much ancient and modern history!
C-Ludik
I just have no idea about what Ukraine is like ! To be honest, I haven’t considered visiting Ukraine before reading your post.Your photos show this is a beautiful place to see. I’m happy to know language is not a problem. I have been to many places where I don’t speak the language but I’m glad to see that they are open and friendly people to help you.
Amy
People are in general very kind and friendly! I was on a bus in western Ukraine at 11pm, and when I asked the woman next to me about the bus route she started asking me all sorts of questions about where I was from and why I was there and what I thought about Ukraine. I hope you get a chance to visit some day!
Cherene Saradar
You’ve really sold it! It sounds wonderful. Love the coffee shop in a bus. Love the gorgeous churches. Being around less tourists (us…lol) always good. Good for you being brave and going somewhere new!
Amy
There are actually a few buses scattered around town, all themed on different cities! The Rome one is also quite nice. The New York one is… surprisingly authentic, haha.