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30 Countries in 30 Years

30Countries30Years

There are birthdays and then there are BIRTHDAYS.

And I’ve had some good birthdays. There was the year we threw an international spy themed party and I wore a fascinator. There was the year Boyfriend took me to a sweet wine bar that would soon be the talk of Brooklyn. And there was the year I threw a fancy dress and cheap accessories party and I wore a fascinator. (So I want to be British, whatever.)

But I’m pretty sure turning 30 in my 30th country – CUBA – is the KO winner.

At_the_airport
I’m also going to use this opportunity to share some truly terrifying photos of my poor fashion sense, even at an early age. It’s nice to see how you’ve grown!

It’s a pretty epic moment. I’ve been traveling for over half my life, slowly racking up experiences, bug bites, camera memory cards, and coins from all over the world. I’m living a pretty lucky life, I know, supported and loved by wonderful people who have finally gotten used to hearing me say, “So I bought another plane ticket…” So I thought to celebrate the adventures I’ve had in the last three decades (!), I’d dig into my disorganized hard drive and my disorganized boxes of printed photos to remember the best moments of the past 30 countries.

Heading to any of these countries? Let me know and I’ll be happy to give advice!

1. CANADA

Travel Canada - Montreal - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Canada… The land of dignified men in front of dignified buildings.

Oh, Canada. The first international foray for many American would-be travelers. My fondest memory of that family camping trip in Nova Scotia is having to go to a medical clinic to get the earring backs pulled out of my ears. Not the last of my international medical mishaps.

But more recently I returned to Canada for a fantastic long weekend in Montreal. As my first solo trip in almost a decade, Montreal was relaxing, confidence-boosting, and delicious. I’d love to go back. There are still donuts I need to try.

Travel Montreal - La Cornetteria - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I walked for an hour and a half to get this donut. I’d do it again immediately.

2. THE UNITED KINGDOM

Travel England - Tower Bridge - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I could have tried to lighten this picture so you could actually see my jet lagged face and extremely slicked back hair (hey, it was the early 2000s), but I decided to spare everyone.

Is this the trip that inspired my habit of adopting a British accent at the bar? Probably. My first trip to England was at the impressionable age of 15, a whirlwind 9-day tour of England, France, and Italy. It was the first time I’d seen a church bigger than a city block and older than my country.

The most important trip to England happened six years later, though, when I went to work as an au pair in a tiny English town on the southern coast. With a gorgeous summer that only had three days of rain, my expectations for European travel were set too high and the desire to live abroad was firmly cemented.

The oldest kid in the family is now in university. So I feel ancient.

3. FRANCE

Travel Paris - Eiffel Tower - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I’m going back to Paris, if only to get a photo in front of the Eiffel Tour that’s not underexposed and ripped.

We took the ferry from Dover to Calais to board a bus, on which I promptly passed out. I awoke to our tour guide’s voice on the bus PA: “Yes, those French soldiers loooove American girls.” I whipped around to look out the window. French soldiers were hanging out of a Jeep next to us, waving and blowing kisses.

Ooh la la.

4. ITALY

Travel Italy - Leaning Tower of Pisa - 30 Countries in 30 Years
There was also a picture of me wearing tapered white capris in the Colosseum, but who needs that?

Wouldn’t it be awesome if I told you the best memory I have of Italy is its impressive ancient history or breathtaking architecture? Instead, it was the Italian men, who I had become terrified of after getting a stern lecture about European men’s aggressive flirting follow-through (that lecture was not directed at me, by the way).

So when three romance cover models came swaggering down a tiny street in Florence, I nearly fainted at their machismo. All three wore the standard harlequin novel uniform of button down white shirts. One of them had his shirt unbuttoned to his navel, while another had given up on wearing his altogether and had just casually thrown it over his arm.

As they got closer, I took a step back just to make sure I wasn’t giving any accidental signals. The nearest Fabio looked my friend (fourteen AND wearing a bandana over her dirty hair) up and down and said, “WOW!”

Guys don’t seem so suave when you’re laughing hysterically.

Travel Italy - Venice - 30 Countries in 30 Years
This was from a trip to Venice I took when I was 20. Just wanted to show off that i got more tan after four months in England than I did after three months in Southeast Asia. Egads.

5. IRELAND

Travel Ireland - Dublin - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Total natural at the… Irish drum thing.

From the life of Galway’s art scene and terrifying bus rides in mist-shrouded cliffs to the wonder of the Giant’s Causeway and drinking hot chocolate in the infamous Europa Hotel, Ireland stole my heart. There’s no place where leprechauns and fairies seem more believable.

6. SPAIN

Travel Spain - Barcelona - 30 Countries in 30 Years
We went to Spain when I was seventeen. Just shy of being able to have the kind of fun you should be having when in Spain.

I’ll confess, as we started our trip in Spain I was unsure. Madrid felt like any other cosmopolitan city with its neo-classical architecture and general busyness. But as we travelled deeper into the country, circling down and around the Costa del Sol and back up to Barcelona, I got the full flavor of Spain and Catalonia.

7. MOROCCO

Travel Morocco - Tea Time - 30 Countries in 30 Years

Totally worth the day trip from Spain just for the camel ride and mint tea alone! Morocco is an enticing destination and one that’s high on my list to explore more fully.

Travel Morocco - Camel Time - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Who DOESN’T pack their school uniform khakis on an international summer vacation??

8. DENMARK

Travel Denmark - Guards - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I took this trip while on the rebound from an ROTC guy, you understand how it is.

I went to Copenhagen, Venice, and Prague when I was 20, a quick getaway from my life as an au pair in England. As one of the few cities to escape extensive bombing in World War II, Copenhagen has amazingly consistent architecture. But really, Denmark is the place to go when you just want to sit and gawk at all the flawlessly gorgeous men and women.
Travel Denmark - Copenhagen - 30 Countries in 30 Years

9.CZECH REPUBLIC

Travel Prague - Charles Bridge - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I had 36 hours in Prague. I managed to find the one hostel where underage local kids came to drink.

By this point in my trip I was running low on funds but I wanted to do something more than just wander the streets, so I picked the church with the cheapest entrance fee. The ticket booth was shut off from the rest of the church in a makeshift wooden foyer. When I pushed open the plywood door and got slammed by the outrageously ornate gold and pink marble, my jaw went slack.

Travel Prague - St. Nicholas - 30 Countries in 30 Years
If eight-year-old me had been a little bit more educated, this would totally have been the style of my bedroom.

10. ISRAEL

Travel Israel - Valley of Armageddon - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Supposedly the end of the world will happen here. This is our ‘before’ picture.

Israel is a gorgeous place rich in history, natural beauty, and legend. Where else can you sit among 2,000-year-old olive trees, pass by military exercises on your ride to the Syrian border, and take a photo in front of the prophesied Armageddon Valley?

This was also the beginning of my obsession with Middle Eastern food and my love affair with hummus. I’m sad it took me so late in life, but I’m trying to make up for it.

Travel Israel - FOOD! - 30 Countries in 30 Years11. CROATIA

Travel Croatia - Dubrovnik - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Also known as King’s Landing.

From the bright orange rooftops of Dubrovnik to the otherworldly beauty of Plitvice Lakes, Croatia jumped to the top of my favorite places on earth. Croatia is, unfortunately, in a part of the world that’s been contested for thousands of years. This has made from some truly unique architecture – like in the city of Split, where a medieval town sprang up inside the walls of a ruined Roman palace. Or in Trogir, where each occupying nations would build on top of existing houses instead of completely replacing them, so you could have a house with a floor of Ottoman architecture, then a floor of Venetian, then a floor of medieval. That’s as close to a fairytale house as you can get, I think.

Travel Croatia - Split - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Split was one of my favorite new cities of that year. There’s a covent built into the actual wall of Diocletian’s Roman palace.

12. MONTENEGRO

Travel Montenegro - Kotor - 30 Countries in 30 Years

Montenegro is the playground of the rich and famous, and it’s no surprise why. Dramatic mountains, stunning bays, picturesque medieval towns, and plenty of gelato shops to sample – this is where I’d want to party too.

13. BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINIA

Travel Mostar - Old Bridge - 30 Countries in 30 Years
The sultan who commissioned the Old Bridge threatened the architect with death if it didn’t work, so the man planned both the bridge and his funeral at the same time.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is beautiful, but it’s also sobering. In Mostar you can see ancient Ottoman houses and young men jumping off the terrifyingly high Old Bridge for applause and Euros, but you can also see the devastation caused by the recent Bosnian War. There are apartments pocked with bullet holes and buildings that are completely bombed out.

I went to Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia and Herzegovina with my aunt as part of a tour. Both our tour guide and bus driver had lived through the war. It was an eye-opening experience that the horrors of war haven’t left us. When I returned home I read correspondent Peter Maass’s book, Love Thy Neighbor, about his time covering the war. I highly recommend it for everyone. History buffs, travelers, anyone. It’s important to confront the evil that happens in the world, but first we have to acknowledge it, and my trip to the former Yugoslavian states was a somber revelation.

Travel Bosnia - Mostar - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Even in 2012, sad reminders of the war still exist in Mostar.

14. SLOVENIA

Travel Slovenia - Ljubljana Canals - 30 Countries in 30 Years

The first thing you have to do on arriving to Slovenia is figure out how to properly pronounce Ljubljana. The second is to indulge in some of the richest hot chocolate you’ll ever have at Cacao.

I confess that I was glum in Slovenia. The capital city, while charming, could not divert my mind from glorious Croatia. But there’s still much of Slovenia to see, and I’d love to get to Lake Bled, so I’m hoping to give Slovenia a second chance soon.

Travel Slovenia - Ljubljana - 30 Countries in 30 Years

15. COSTA RICA

Travel Costa Rica - Arenal - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I trespassed all over that mountain (just kidding, I didn’t go past the sign).

Nothing makes for an excellent escape from New York City winters like going to Central America. Costa Rica was an adventure, from zip lining in the cloud forest to riding on the back of a motorbike for the very first time.

This tropical country is an incredibly easy destination for independent travellers, and if you need any help planning your trip check out my Costa Rica travel tips.

Travel Costa Rica - Manuel Antonio - 30 Countries in 30 Years
After growing up on the Jersey Shore, I didn’t get all the fuss about the beach. And then I went to Costa Rica. Ahh.

16. TURKEY

Travel Istanbul - Hagia Sophia - 30 Countries in 30 Years
There’s something truly spectacular about the Hagia Sophia. It can be crammed with tourists, and you still feel like you’re having a personal experience.

After hearing my aunt rave about Turkey for decades, it became something of a legend for me. I finally made it there – twice in one year, in fact!

Istanbul is one of the most complex cities I’ve ever been to. From ancient mosques and palaces of intrigue to culinary schools and hidden French streets, Istanbul is one of my favorite places in the world. Recent sad events in Turkey are heart-breaking, but I hope people will continue to visit this stupefyingly incredible country.

Travel Istanbul - Blue Mosque - 30 Countries in 30 Years

17. BULGARIA

Travel Bulgaria - Sofia - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Buy your cigarettes and do your calf exercises at the same time!

Bulgaria had to win me over. Coming from sunny, colorful Istanbul to rainy, gray Sofia, I was not easily impressed. But as the sun came out and I got to see the quirkiness and character of Bulgaria, I was charmed.

Bulgaria has some amazing architecture that is slowly being restored. I can’t wait to see what the Bulgarians do next with their country.

Travel Bulgaria - Black Sea - 30 Countries in 30 Years

18. ROMANIA

Travel Romania - Bucharest - 30 Countries in 30 Years
You see everything in New York City except FIRE DANCERS.

If Bulgaria had to win me over, my love for Romania started out like an uncontrollable crush. Walking down the streets of Bucharest that first day, I knew, absolutely knew, that I was going to fall hard for that city. It makes me think of what bohemian Paris was like, beautiful if a little chaotic, vibrant if a little sultry. Those were the days of the World Cup – or rather nights, as we were living ahead of Brazil. We’d find bars that were showing the games, then drag ourselves away at two or three am – and the party was still going on strong.

Transylvania is one of the prettiest, most picturesque places I’ve ever been, and every spot it has on “must go” travel lists is well earned. It’s one of my top recommendations for people who are looking for new and exciting destinations in Europe.

Travel Romania - Sibiu - 30 Countries in 30 Years

19. GREECE

Travel Greece - Acropolis - 30 Countries in 30 Years

The power of Pinterest proved to be too strong and so I booked a vacation to Santorini. And Santorini is just as perfect as the pictures suggest. But it is packed. Everyone has the same pictures of those blue-domed buildings because everyone has had to angle the other tourists out of the photo.

It was actually Athens that was the highlight of our Greece trip. My favorite memory was dinner in the hip neighborhood of Gazi at a corner restaurant called Kanella, where we ordered way too much food (that we completely devoured anyway) and had a leisurely three-hour meal with a carafe of wine that never seemed to end.

Travel Greece - Santorini - 30 Countries in 30 Years
A beautiful place — if you survive the insane taxi ride up the winding cliff roads from the port.

20. RUSSIA



Travel St. Petersburg - Savior on the Spilled Blood - 30 Countries in 30 Years

I ended up going to Russia unexpectedly — sort of. Any country that requires a visa application listing all the countries you’ve been to in the last ten years (and the dates you were there) isn’t a purely accidental pit stop, but Russia wasn’t originally in my travel plans.

To be honest, Russia was not an easy country to travel in. The language barrier proved to be more challenging than I expected and Russian fashion was way out of my league, but I’m glad I spent time in elegant Saint Petersburg. I practically sang “Once Upon a November” as I danced around the tour groups in the Winter Palace. My short trip just got me anxious to go again – but maybe this time in the summer when it’s warmer.

Travel Russia - The Hermitage - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I waited for about fifteen minutes to get this shot sans any other tourists. Any empty photo at the Hermitage is about as realistic as an empty photo of Angkor Wat at sunrise.

21. ESTONIA

Travel Estonia - Tallinn - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Could a city BE any cuter? But it’s not all medieval history in Estonia…

Go to Estonia now, because it is on the brink of becoming one of the must-go destinations in Europe. I haven’t fallen for a city like Tallinn in a long time. The city is so much more than just its medieval history. I loved wandering through the perfectly preserved Old City streets, but I also loved drinking a craft beer in the hip warehouse district and lounging next to an abandoned Soviet prison. And it’s a fantastic place to party.

Travel Estonia - Patarei - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Technically, you can’t go swimming. Technically, you can’t jump off the building into the water…

22. NORWAY

Travel Norway - Oslo - 30 Countries in 30 Years
The Oslo Opera House is supposed to resemble an iceberg and that’s pretty fitting because I was *freezing* this entire trip.

Oslo is cool, to be sure, but Norway sadly suffered the same fate as Slovenia. I nearly cried when I left Estonia and, as much as I tried to muster up enthusiasm for Oslo, I found myself relieved when it was time to go.

Norway does have some breathtaking scenery that I’d jump to visit. Perhaps the city’s just not for me.

23. SINGAPORE
Travel Singapore - 30 Countries in 30 Years

Most people only spend three or four days in Singapore. I spent two months. And while the city-state isn’t as strict as everyone worries it is (you can’t even buy gum to chew, so that solves that problem), its super clean, uber organized character can swing either way. I’ll admit, I appreciated using a subway system that was efficient and not smelly, where people generally practiced courtesy. But after a while even the leisure spaces in Singapore seemed a little too planned.

The best parts of Singapore are in the pockets of the city, like in the hawker center in Little India where my favorite butter chicken guy could see me coming from across the plaza. Or the National Museum of Singapore, where you can watch footage of the moving speech Lee Kuan Yew gave when announcing the founding of the country. Or the Singapore Zoo, where the animals are in open-air habitats – so gorillas can charge at you in a terrifying way before they are stopped by the moat surrounding their island.

Singapore has so much to offer and you won’t be bored, no matter the length of your stay or your budget.Travel Singapore - Little India - 30 Countries in 30 Years

24. MALAYSIA

Travel Malaysia - Sibu Island - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Hold on to everything!

When we needed to get away from the modern life of Singapore, we went as far as we possibly could in just a few hours – an island resort in Malaysia.

Shooting across the South China Sea on the boat from the mainland to Sibu Island, clutching a to-go bag of iced coffee, was one of the most fun things I did in Southeast Asia. Then it was two days of blissed out nothing, trying to find sharks while snorkeling, playing Frisbee with the staff, eating delicious three and four course meals (umm, their soup is amazing!). Though of course, doing the return boat ride at 8pm in the pitch dark was less fun than the first ride…

Travel Malaysia - Rimba Resort - 30 Countries in 30 Years
It may not be Sandals, but it was still wonderful!

25. INDONESIA

Travel Indonesia - Bali - 30 Countries in 30 Years

While Bali was one of the destinations I had to visit while in Asia, we almost didn’t make it when a cloud of volcanic ash almost destroyed the entire vacation. But after a canceled flight, a 3am contingency meeting with Boyfriend, and a rebooking on a different airline, our trip was saved.

Bali is a dream vacation for many Americans, and it fulfilled my every expectation. Clutching Boyfriend as we motorbiked our way through lush green rice paddies, I couldn’t help but laugh. And while Bali is pricier than most of Southeast Asia, it’s still luxury at affordable prices. We drank the most expensive coffee in the world, got massages not once but twice, and ended the trip with a private dinner on the terrace of a fabulous French restaurant. This trip might have ruined my travel expectations forever!

Travel Bali - Rice Terraces - 30 Countries in 30 Years

26. CAMBODIA

Travel Cambodia - Ta Prohm - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I could totally be a tomb raider. As long as there’s not a lot of running. Or hand-eye coordination. Or humidity.

Angkor Wat was fantastic, as everyone who’s been there will tell you, but I was shocked at how hard I fell for Siem Reap. Siem Reap! It’s not much to look at. It’s functional, dusty, and a little chaotic. But there was so much warmth there. The people are some of the loveliest I ever met – the vendors at the night market would invite you to bargain with them!

“This t-shirt is usually five dollars, but for you I can give a special discount.”

The most beautiful part of Cambodia is the children. They would shout hello and wave at me and my friend or stare until I would wave at them – and they would erupt into giggles and smiles. But it was also a heart-breaking place, as I saw children weaving through a packed Water Festival, their eyes not on the festivities and happy chaos around them but on the ground as they looked for garbage to collect and recycle.

I was totally surprised by how Cambodia captured my heart. I cannot believe the strength and generosity the Cambodians have after all hardship and horrors they’ve been through. And it was a powerful reminder to keep my eyes open as I travel, to see all the pain and beauty wherever I go.

Travel Cambodia - Siem Reap - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Where tuk-tuks go to die.

27. THAILAND

Travel Bangkok - VIP Theatre - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Popcorn delivery to the man blissed out in the recliner.

With less than forty-eight hours in Bangkok, I had a hard time unraveling my emotions about the city. It felt like a dangerous crush, one of those that could switch from hot to cold in a minute. But for the most part, my relationship with Bangkok ran hot – especially at the VIP screening of Star Wars. A plush recliner, cozy fleece blanket, and unlimited popcorn and soda available at the push of a button? If I lived in Bangkok I’d never see a movie any other way.

Travel Thailand - Bangkok - 30 Countries in 30 Years

28. LAOS

Travel Laos - Vang Vieng - 30 Countries in 30 Years
My baller motorbike driver, in five different countries so far!

All it took was five days in Laos to realize that I’m getting old – three days of trying to keep up with the twenty-something backpackers in Vang Vieng and two days of leisurely eating our way through sophisticated Luang Prabang.

Laos has suffered a lot from bad tourist practices. I’m still thinking through my experiences and feelings about Laos. It’s definitely a gorgeous place to go, but I urge all travelers to carefully consider their actions in this more sensitive environment.

Travel Laos - Luang Prabang - 30 Countries in 30 Years

29. VIETNAM

Travel Vietnam - Ha Long Bay - 30 Countries in 30 Years
The water was warm, about twenty minutes before we jumped in.

Sweet Mary, the food. I know I did other things to (Ha Long Bay is the obvious highlight) but it’s the food that I think of first. From Vietnamese coffee and banh mi to Cao Lau and dim sum, I dream about what I ate in Vietnam.

Travel Vietnam - Saigon - 30 Countries in 30 Years
I could eat all of these right now.

30. CUBA

Travel Cuba - Classic Car - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Oh, the cars in Havana! Gorgeous things. For a fun documentary on the classic cars and their devoted owners, check out “Yank Tanks.”

To be in Cuba right now at this moment, to see the artfully restored buildings next to the crumbling facades, to have the opportunity to talk frankly with Cubans about the past and the present, is an incredible privilege. There is so much emotion here in this country. I have learned so much. And I’ll be honest with you – I’m not sure Cuba is ready for the Americans who cannot wait to visit. The infrastructure is already strained to capacity and the people clearly have mixed emotions about Americans coming. So please, please visit. There’s a lot of hope here for the future. But please please, be careful when you do. This country is beautiful and strong, but also at a very vulnerable moment. It’s important, now more than ever, to remember to travel with respect.

Travel Cuba - 30 Countries in 30 Years
Full circle, sixteen years later, with my best travel buddy. It’s nice to see I’m doing something different with my hair.

So what’s next?

The zocalo in Mexico City. Yes, those are police in full riot gear. I never found out why, but I did find out their riot shields have cup holders!
The zocalo in Mexico City. Yes, those are police in full riot gear. I never found out why, but I did find out their riot shields have cup holders!

Mexico! I’m already here, making my way down from Mexico City to Belize City over the next few weeks. You can check out my mishaps on Snapchat at “wayfarersbook.” And after that – well, there are plans. I’ve booked a one-way ticket. 2016 is going to be a little bit crazy.

So that’s it! 30 countries — and counting. I love how much travel is a constant part of my life and I love how it’s changing me. And I’m thinking about what comes in the next thirty years. Where I’ll go. What I’ll see. What I’ll do. I don’t know exactly. But it makes me think of one of the Cubans I talked to, when I asked him what he thought of the imminent American visitors.

“Tell them to come,” he said.

So here I go.

8 Comments

  • Dominique

    What a great post! As always, I really enjoy your writing style! It must’ve been so much fun going through all the old pictures and reminiscing about your past holidays. That’s why I started my blog last year as well. I went through all my old photos and stories to write down details about all my holidays and I simply couldn’t stop 🙂 I can’t wait to see what 2016 has in store for you!

    • Amy

      Thanks for the kind words, Dominique! Half the reason I blog is so that I can remember my trips! 🙂 I do have big news for 2016! I’ll update on the blog soon.

  • Ray

    That is a very impressive and varied list of countries to visit before turning 30! Of these 30, which country would say has changed your outlook on life the most? And how do you see it shaping your travel style for the next 30 countries you plan to visit?

    • Amy

      Wow, great questions, Ray! Hard to pick (and articulate!) just a couple, but I would have to say trip to Croatia and Bosnia and now my recent travels to Cuba, Ukraine, and Serbia have been exceptionally eye-opening. It’s amazing to go places where recent history is still very palpable — or where history is being made. I hadn’t experienced that before my trip to Croatia. And now, I prefer to travel slower. I used to cram as much as possible into a trip. Now, I take my time to get to know a place and, if I can, the people. I’ve had so many incredible experiences, especially with the last 9 months of full-time travel. I don’t see myself slowing down any time soon. 🙂

  • jim corbett

    This is a really impressive list and I really liked it. I already explored some of the them. You put great pictures looks so beautiful. Thanks for this amazing article, I gonna put some of your destination in my travel list.

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