30 Countries in 30 Years
There are birthdays and then there are BIRTHDAYS.
And I’ve had some good birthdays. There was the year we threw an international spy themed party and I wore a fascinator. There was the year Boyfriend took me to a sweet wine bar that would soon be the talk of Brooklyn. And there was the year I threw a fancy dress and cheap accessories party and I wore a fascinator. (So I want to be British, whatever.)
But I’m pretty sure turning 30 in my 30th country – CUBA – is the KO winner.
It’s a pretty epic moment. I’ve been traveling for over half my life, slowly racking up experiences, bug bites, camera memory cards, and coins from all over the world. I’m living a pretty lucky life, I know, supported and loved by wonderful people who have finally gotten used to hearing me say, “So I bought another plane ticket…” So I thought to celebrate the adventures I’ve had in the last three decades (!), I’d dig into my disorganized hard drive and my disorganized boxes of printed photos to remember the best moments of the past 30 countries.
Heading to any of these countries? Let me know and I’ll be happy to give advice!
1. CANADA
Oh, Canada. The first international foray for many American would-be travelers. My fondest memory of that family camping trip in Nova Scotia is having to go to a medical clinic to get the earring backs pulled out of my ears. Not the last of my international medical mishaps.
But more recently I returned to Canada for a fantastic long weekend in Montreal. As my first solo trip in almost a decade, Montreal was relaxing, confidence-boosting, and delicious. I’d love to go back. There are still donuts I need to try.
2. THE UNITED KINGDOM
Is this the trip that inspired my habit of adopting a British accent at the bar? Probably. My first trip to England was at the impressionable age of 15, a whirlwind 9-day tour of England, France, and Italy. It was the first time I’d seen a church bigger than a city block and older than my country.
The most important trip to England happened six years later, though, when I went to work as an au pair in a tiny English town on the southern coast. With a gorgeous summer that only had three days of rain, my expectations for European travel were set too high and the desire to live abroad was firmly cemented.
The oldest kid in the family is now in university. So I feel ancient.
3. FRANCE
We took the ferry from Dover to Calais to board a bus, on which I promptly passed out. I awoke to our tour guide’s voice on the bus PA: “Yes, those French soldiers loooove American girls.” I whipped around to look out the window. French soldiers were hanging out of a Jeep next to us, waving and blowing kisses.
Ooh la la.
4. ITALY
Wouldn’t it be awesome if I told you the best memory I have of Italy is its impressive ancient history or breathtaking architecture? Instead, it was the Italian men, who I had become terrified of after getting a stern lecture about European men’s aggressive flirting follow-through (that lecture was not directed at me, by the way).
So when three romance cover models came swaggering down a tiny street in Florence, I nearly fainted at their machismo. All three wore the standard harlequin novel uniform of button down white shirts. One of them had his shirt unbuttoned to his navel, while another had given up on wearing his altogether and had just casually thrown it over his arm.
As they got closer, I took a step back just to make sure I wasn’t giving any accidental signals. The nearest Fabio looked my friend (fourteen AND wearing a bandana over her dirty hair) up and down and said, “WOW!”
Guys don’t seem so suave when you’re laughing hysterically.
5. IRELAND
From the life of Galway’s art scene and terrifying bus rides in mist-shrouded cliffs to the wonder of the Giant’s Causeway and drinking hot chocolate in the infamous Europa Hotel, Ireland stole my heart. There’s no place where leprechauns and fairies seem more believable.
6. SPAIN
I’ll confess, as we started our trip in Spain I was unsure. Madrid felt like any other cosmopolitan city with its neo-classical architecture and general busyness. But as we travelled deeper into the country, circling down and around the Costa del Sol and back up to Barcelona, I got the full flavor of Spain and Catalonia.
7. MOROCCO
Totally worth the day trip from Spain just for the camel ride and mint tea alone! Morocco is an enticing destination and one that’s high on my list to explore more fully.
8. DENMARK
I went to Copenhagen, Venice, and Prague when I was 20, a quick getaway from my life as an au pair in England. As one of the few cities to escape extensive bombing in World War II, Copenhagen has amazingly consistent architecture. But really, Denmark is the place to go when you just want to sit and gawk at all the flawlessly gorgeous men and women.
9.CZECH REPUBLIC
By this point in my trip I was running low on funds but I wanted to do something more than just wander the streets, so I picked the church with the cheapest entrance fee. The ticket booth was shut off from the rest of the church in a makeshift wooden foyer. When I pushed open the plywood door and got slammed by the outrageously ornate gold and pink marble, my jaw went slack.
10. ISRAEL
Israel is a gorgeous place rich in history, natural beauty, and legend. Where else can you sit among 2,000-year-old olive trees, pass by military exercises on your ride to the Syrian border, and take a photo in front of the prophesied Armageddon Valley?
This was also the beginning of my obsession with Middle Eastern food and my love affair with hummus. I’m sad it took me so late in life, but I’m trying to make up for it.
11. CROATIA
From the bright orange rooftops of Dubrovnik to the otherworldly beauty of Plitvice Lakes, Croatia jumped to the top of my favorite places on earth. Croatia is, unfortunately, in a part of the world that’s been contested for thousands of years. This has made from some truly unique architecture – like in the city of Split, where a medieval town sprang up inside the walls of a ruined Roman palace. Or in Trogir, where each occupying nations would build on top of existing houses instead of completely replacing them, so you could have a house with a floor of Ottoman architecture, then a floor of Venetian, then a floor of medieval. That’s as close to a fairytale house as you can get, I think.
12. MONTENEGRO
Montenegro is the playground of the rich and famous, and it’s no surprise why. Dramatic mountains, stunning bays, picturesque medieval towns, and plenty of gelato shops to sample – this is where I’d want to party too.
13. BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINIA
Bosnia and Herzegovina is beautiful, but it’s also sobering. In Mostar you can see ancient Ottoman houses and young men jumping off the terrifyingly high Old Bridge for applause and Euros, but you can also see the devastation caused by the recent Bosnian War. There are apartments pocked with bullet holes and buildings that are completely bombed out.
I went to Croatia, Montenegro, and Bosnia and Herzegovina with my aunt as part of a tour. Both our tour guide and bus driver had lived through the war. It was an eye-opening experience that the horrors of war haven’t left us. When I returned home I read correspondent Peter Maass’s book, Love Thy Neighbor, about his time covering the war. I highly recommend it for everyone. History buffs, travelers, anyone. It’s important to confront the evil that happens in the world, but first we have to acknowledge it, and my trip to the former Yugoslavian states was a somber revelation.
14. SLOVENIA
The first thing you have to do on arriving to Slovenia is figure out how to properly pronounce Ljubljana. The second is to indulge in some of the richest hot chocolate you’ll ever have at Cacao.
I confess that I was glum in Slovenia. The capital city, while charming, could not divert my mind from glorious Croatia. But there’s still much of Slovenia to see, and I’d love to get to Lake Bled, so I’m hoping to give Slovenia a second chance soon.
15. COSTA RICA
Nothing makes for an excellent escape from New York City winters like going to Central America. Costa Rica was an adventure, from zip lining in the cloud forest to riding on the back of a motorbike for the very first time.
This tropical country is an incredibly easy destination for independent travellers, and if you need any help planning your trip check out my Costa Rica travel tips.
16. TURKEY
After hearing my aunt rave about Turkey for decades, it became something of a legend for me. I finally made it there – twice in one year, in fact!
Istanbul is one of the most complex cities I’ve ever been to. From ancient mosques and palaces of intrigue to culinary schools and hidden French streets, Istanbul is one of my favorite places in the world. Recent sad events in Turkey are heart-breaking, but I hope people will continue to visit this stupefyingly incredible country.
17. BULGARIA
Bulgaria had to win me over. Coming from sunny, colorful Istanbul to rainy, gray Sofia, I was not easily impressed. But as the sun came out and I got to see the quirkiness and character of Bulgaria, I was charmed.
Bulgaria has some amazing architecture that is slowly being restored. I can’t wait to see what the Bulgarians do next with their country.
18. ROMANIA
If Bulgaria had to win me over, my love for Romania started out like an uncontrollable crush. Walking down the streets of Bucharest that first day, I knew, absolutely knew, that I was going to fall hard for that city. It makes me think of what bohemian Paris was like, beautiful if a little chaotic, vibrant if a little sultry. Those were the days of the World Cup – or rather nights, as we were living ahead of Brazil. We’d find bars that were showing the games, then drag ourselves away at two or three am – and the party was still going on strong.
Transylvania is one of the prettiest, most picturesque places I’ve ever been, and every spot it has on “must go” travel lists is well earned. It’s one of my top recommendations for people who are looking for new and exciting destinations in Europe.
19. GREECE
The power of Pinterest proved to be too strong and so I booked a vacation to Santorini. And Santorini is just as perfect as the pictures suggest. But it is packed. Everyone has the same pictures of those blue-domed buildings because everyone has had to angle the other tourists out of the photo.
It was actually Athens that was the highlight of our Greece trip. My favorite memory was dinner in the hip neighborhood of Gazi at a corner restaurant called Kanella, where we ordered way too much food (that we completely devoured anyway) and had a leisurely three-hour meal with a carafe of wine that never seemed to end.
20. RUSSIA
I ended up going to Russia unexpectedly — sort of. Any country that requires a visa application listing all the countries you’ve been to in the last ten years (and the dates you were there) isn’t a purely accidental pit stop, but Russia wasn’t originally in my travel plans.
To be honest, Russia was not an easy country to travel in. The language barrier proved to be more challenging than I expected and Russian fashion was way out of my league, but I’m glad I spent time in elegant Saint Petersburg. I practically sang “Once Upon a November” as I danced around the tour groups in the Winter Palace. My short trip just got me anxious to go again – but maybe this time in the summer when it’s warmer.
21. ESTONIA
Go to Estonia now, because it is on the brink of becoming one of the must-go destinations in Europe. I haven’t fallen for a city like Tallinn in a long time. The city is so much more than just its medieval history. I loved wandering through the perfectly preserved Old City streets, but I also loved drinking a craft beer in the hip warehouse district and lounging next to an abandoned Soviet prison. And it’s a fantastic place to party.
22. NORWAY
Oslo is cool, to be sure, but Norway sadly suffered the same fate as Slovenia. I nearly cried when I left Estonia and, as much as I tried to muster up enthusiasm for Oslo, I found myself relieved when it was time to go.
Norway does have some breathtaking scenery that I’d jump to visit. Perhaps the city’s just not for me.
23. SINGAPORE
Most people only spend three or four days in Singapore. I spent two months. And while the city-state isn’t as strict as everyone worries it is (you can’t even buy gum to chew, so that solves that problem), its super clean, uber organized character can swing either way. I’ll admit, I appreciated using a subway system that was efficient and not smelly, where people generally practiced courtesy. But after a while even the leisure spaces in Singapore seemed a little too planned.
The best parts of Singapore are in the pockets of the city, like in the hawker center in Little India where my favorite butter chicken guy could see me coming from across the plaza. Or the National Museum of Singapore, where you can watch footage of the moving speech Lee Kuan Yew gave when announcing the founding of the country. Or the Singapore Zoo, where the animals are in open-air habitats – so gorillas can charge at you in a terrifying way before they are stopped by the moat surrounding their island.
Singapore has so much to offer and you won’t be bored, no matter the length of your stay or your budget.
24. MALAYSIA
When we needed to get away from the modern life of Singapore, we went as far as we possibly could in just a few hours – an island resort in Malaysia.
Shooting across the South China Sea on the boat from the mainland to Sibu Island, clutching a to-go bag of iced coffee, was one of the most fun things I did in Southeast Asia. Then it was two days of blissed out nothing, trying to find sharks while snorkeling, playing Frisbee with the staff, eating delicious three and four course meals (umm, their soup is amazing!). Though of course, doing the return boat ride at 8pm in the pitch dark was less fun than the first ride…
25. INDONESIA
While Bali was one of the destinations I had to visit while in Asia, we almost didn’t make it when a cloud of volcanic ash almost destroyed the entire vacation. But after a canceled flight, a 3am contingency meeting with Boyfriend, and a rebooking on a different airline, our trip was saved.
Bali is a dream vacation for many Americans, and it fulfilled my every expectation. Clutching Boyfriend as we motorbiked our way through lush green rice paddies, I couldn’t help but laugh. And while Bali is pricier than most of Southeast Asia, it’s still luxury at affordable prices. We drank the most expensive coffee in the world, got massages not once but twice, and ended the trip with a private dinner on the terrace of a fabulous French restaurant. This trip might have ruined my travel expectations forever!
26. CAMBODIA
Angkor Wat was fantastic, as everyone who’s been there will tell you, but I was shocked at how hard I fell for Siem Reap. Siem Reap! It’s not much to look at. It’s functional, dusty, and a little chaotic. But there was so much warmth there. The people are some of the loveliest I ever met – the vendors at the night market would invite you to bargain with them!
“This t-shirt is usually five dollars, but for you I can give a special discount.”
The most beautiful part of Cambodia is the children. They would shout hello and wave at me and my friend or stare until I would wave at them – and they would erupt into giggles and smiles. But it was also a heart-breaking place, as I saw children weaving through a packed Water Festival, their eyes not on the festivities and happy chaos around them but on the ground as they looked for garbage to collect and recycle.
I was totally surprised by how Cambodia captured my heart. I cannot believe the strength and generosity the Cambodians have after all hardship and horrors they’ve been through. And it was a powerful reminder to keep my eyes open as I travel, to see all the pain and beauty wherever I go.
27. THAILAND
With less than forty-eight hours in Bangkok, I had a hard time unraveling my emotions about the city. It felt like a dangerous crush, one of those that could switch from hot to cold in a minute. But for the most part, my relationship with Bangkok ran hot – especially at the VIP screening of Star Wars. A plush recliner, cozy fleece blanket, and unlimited popcorn and soda available at the push of a button? If I lived in Bangkok I’d never see a movie any other way.
28. LAOS
All it took was five days in Laos to realize that I’m getting old – three days of trying to keep up with the twenty-something backpackers in Vang Vieng and two days of leisurely eating our way through sophisticated Luang Prabang.
Laos has suffered a lot from bad tourist practices. I’m still thinking through my experiences and feelings about Laos. It’s definitely a gorgeous place to go, but I urge all travelers to carefully consider their actions in this more sensitive environment.
29. VIETNAM
Sweet Mary, the food. I know I did other things to (Ha Long Bay is the obvious highlight) but it’s the food that I think of first. From Vietnamese coffee and banh mi to Cao Lau and dim sum, I dream about what I ate in Vietnam.
30. CUBA
To be in Cuba right now at this moment, to see the artfully restored buildings next to the crumbling facades, to have the opportunity to talk frankly with Cubans about the past and the present, is an incredible privilege. There is so much emotion here in this country. I have learned so much. And I’ll be honest with you – I’m not sure Cuba is ready for the Americans who cannot wait to visit. The infrastructure is already strained to capacity and the people clearly have mixed emotions about Americans coming. So please, please visit. There’s a lot of hope here for the future. But please please, be careful when you do. This country is beautiful and strong, but also at a very vulnerable moment. It’s important, now more than ever, to remember to travel with respect.
So what’s next?
Mexico! I’m already here, making my way down from Mexico City to Belize City over the next few weeks. You can check out my mishaps on Snapchat at “wayfarersbook.” And after that – well, there are plans. I’ve booked a one-way ticket. 2016 is going to be a little bit crazy.
So that’s it! 30 countries — and counting. I love how much travel is a constant part of my life and I love how it’s changing me. And I’m thinking about what comes in the next thirty years. Where I’ll go. What I’ll see. What I’ll do. I don’t know exactly. But it makes me think of one of the Cubans I talked to, when I asked him what he thought of the imminent American visitors.
“Tell them to come,” he said.
So here I go.
8 Comments
Dominique
What a great post! As always, I really enjoy your writing style! It must’ve been so much fun going through all the old pictures and reminiscing about your past holidays. That’s why I started my blog last year as well. I went through all my old photos and stories to write down details about all my holidays and I simply couldn’t stop 🙂 I can’t wait to see what 2016 has in store for you!
Amy
Thanks for the kind words, Dominique! Half the reason I blog is so that I can remember my trips! 🙂 I do have big news for 2016! I’ll update on the blog soon.
Ray
That is a very impressive and varied list of countries to visit before turning 30! Of these 30, which country would say has changed your outlook on life the most? And how do you see it shaping your travel style for the next 30 countries you plan to visit?
Amy
Wow, great questions, Ray! Hard to pick (and articulate!) just a couple, but I would have to say trip to Croatia and Bosnia and now my recent travels to Cuba, Ukraine, and Serbia have been exceptionally eye-opening. It’s amazing to go places where recent history is still very palpable — or where history is being made. I hadn’t experienced that before my trip to Croatia. And now, I prefer to travel slower. I used to cram as much as possible into a trip. Now, I take my time to get to know a place and, if I can, the people. I’ve had so many incredible experiences, especially with the last 9 months of full-time travel. I don’t see myself slowing down any time soon. 🙂
Clazz - An Orcadian Abroad
This is such a cool post! It’s funny that I noticed your smile gets bigger as you get older, because I notice exactly the same thing when I look at my old travel photos lol! Oh teenage angst. 😉
Amy
Ha, I never noticed that! Thanks for pointing it out. 🙂
jim corbett
This is a really impressive list and I really liked it. I already explored some of the them. You put great pictures looks so beautiful. Thanks for this amazing article, I gonna put some of your destination in my travel list.
Amy
Thanks for reading! Hope you get to explore some new places soon. 🙂