9 Ways I Changed Living in Serbia
My decision to spend over a month living in Serbia this summer was completely random. I had no expectations, just a prayer that I would find a cute coffee shop. While it wasn’t without its challenges, Serbia was an absolute delight and I quickly settled into a groove, establishing myself as a local at various businesses and making friends.
I don’t think a lot of travelers consider Serbia, maybe because they don’t know much about it or because it’s overshadowed by the glorious beaches of Croatia. But part of my goal with this travel blog is to promote fantastic ‘next-step’ destinations, and Serbia is a gem for travelers itching for undiscovered Europe. However, there are a few side effects to living in Serbia…
1. I’m no longer surprised when someone lights up inside a restaurant.
The first time I saw a woman smoking in a café, I was stunned that she’d do something so ballsy. But looking around I saw she wasn’t the only one enjoying a cigarette in the cool AC. Smoking inside is still a common practice in Serbia, to the point that a friend told me he didn’t care who the president was as long as indoor smoking was kept legal. Eventually I got used to it, but the first few days were rough on my eyes and lungs.
2. My liquor tolerance leveled up.
The traditional Serbian drink is rakia, a fruit brandy with such a high alcohol content that it would knock most Americans over at just a whiff. Every Serbian family makes their own rakia, too, which can result in an even higher alcohol content (up to 80% or 90% percent). It’s meant to be sipped, not shot, and enjoyed. To my Serbian friends’ surprise, I did enjoy rakia. I preferred honey rakia, which usually only has an alcohol content of about 40%, but I was happy to try all the varieties.
3. I expect to be able to lounge around at cafés for as long as I want.
No one rushes you out of a café or restaurant in Serbia. The waiter only brings you your bill if he’s finishing his shift or you flag him down – and sometimes you even have to go hunt for him. I’ve spent hours and hours in cafés having just a coffee or two, and no one could be bothered to hurry me along.
4. I stopped asking people if they spoke English.
English is so prevalent in Serbia that it is rare to find someone who doesn’t speak it. When I asked my friends how they had acquired such fluent and American-sounding English, nearly everyone attributed it to the lack of dubbing in movies and TV shows.
5. I became more aware of my position as a US citizen in war-torn lands.
I am not an overly political person, especially having deftly slipped away from my home country months ago. But traveling in a recently war-ravaged country means that you will confront it daily. The war came up with nearly every person I met. Even the guy who straight out told me he didn’t want to talk about it couldn’t avoid elaborating on his experiences. And when it’s election year in your country and one of the candidates’ names is Clinton, well, it’s basically impossible to sidestep. It was a firm reminder that traveling is just as much about education as it is about fun and new friends.
6. My definition of café background music changed.
In the US it’s all singer-songwriters and acoustic guitars. In Serbia it is non-stop dance mixes, like it’s always 11pm on a Saturday. Club music twenty-four seven — or ABBA.
7. I stopped being surprised by the question, “Would you like ketchup on your pizza?”
I still don’t get it, but at least now I expect it.
8. I faint at the thought of a $4 cappuccino.
Cappuccinos were a weekly splurge back in the US, where I could justify the occasional $4 luxury-necessity. In Serbia cappuccinos are rarely more than two bucks, and I downed one or two daily. Then I went to Paris and made the fatal mistake of ordering a cappuccino without looking at the price. I nearly passed out at the six Euro bill.
9. I think everyone is my friend now.
After traveling to over thirty countries, I still haven’t met any people as universally friendly as the Serbians. I was welcomed warmly and genuinely by everyone I met, invited over for dinners and birthday parties, and was resolutely banned from paying for my own drinks or coffee. I could show up at my local bar whenever I wanted, knowing whoever was around would be down for a chat. My friends all bemoaned the portrayal of Serbians as the bad guys in movies and TV shows, but for me they’ve become the gold standard in genuine hospitality.
Have you spent time in Serbia? What were your impressions?
20 Comments
Dominique
What an inspirational post! Serbia sounds like such a carefree happy place! I can’t wait to visit one day! 🙂
Amy
Serbia really captured a special place in my heart! I would love to go back and dig into the countryside — there are some gorgeous looking parks!
Igor Levicki
@Dominique:
If you are rich, you can be carefree and happy not only in Serbia, but everywhere.
If you are just a nice person you can find friendly people to be your hosts and have even better time.
Amy
Locals really make an experience ten times more meaningful! 🙂
Amanda | Chasing My Sunshine
I loved following your snaps through Serbia – and honestly the coffee shops and cafes played a big part in that! I love how you’re opening our eyes to traveling new places. While the smoking indoors thing would totally drive me (or at least my eyes) crazy for a while, I think Serbia is definitely on the list now. I already have the tendency of assuming everybody is my friend so I’ll fit right in. 😉
Amy
Aw, thanks, Amanda! Honestly, several of the places I’ve been this year I had no idea what I was getting into — and they’ve ended up being some of my favorite places! I’m glad I’m able to shine the spotlight on the beauty and quirkiness of some less popular destinations. 🙂 And for friendly people Serbia is *amazing.* You’ll leave with a rolodex of new friends.
runawaybrit
I loved Belgrade when I visited, I wish I could have stayed longer to explore more. Those cookies look so good!!!
Amy
I want to go back too! It has such an energetic vibe to it. And yes, I had… many of those cookies. 🙂
Ellen
Sounds like it was a really positive experience. I wasn’t a fan of the indoor smoking though!
Amy
Yeah, I was really surprised by it. However, I went to Paris a few days later and all my friends were chain smoking, in and out of their apartments, so it’s really all over Europe. In fact, cigarette smoke always reminds me of Europe, all the way back to when I was an au pair in England ten years ago!
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sanela
Thoroughly enjoyed reading this blog about your trip to Serbia. Very accurate on the people and lifestyle of this under-appreciated country. As a chainsmoker myself, I don’t mind the indoor smoke but can still agree that the smell and stuffiness can be overwhelming. It’s been 4 years still I’ve been back but I definitely cannot wait to go again. Cheers and happy future travels!
Amy
It’s definitely a place I feel drawn back to too! Thanks the kind words, and I hope you get to return to Serbia soon. 🙂
wendysue
I am on my way there by myself. I met some college kids from serbia and they dared me to visit.But since then they have all found jobs, but im still going. Any advice?
Amy
You’ll have a great time! Where exactly are you going and for how long?
Serbian people are super friendly — some of the friendliest I’ve ever met — so don’t be afraid of going places by yourself or talking to strangers. Most of the younger generation speaks excellent English, though if you meet someone who doesn’t they might just curiously stare at you (this is true all over the world — if people don’t respond to your questions, it doesn’t necessarily mean they’re brushing you off but maybe they just don’t know what to say). Tourist infrastructure isn’t super developed outside the major destinations, but that’s no reason not to explore the country. Just makes sure you do a little extra planning if you’re going off the beaten track.
While Serbia’s cities have a very chill, hip vibe, I regret that I didn’t have a chance to visit the countryside. If you have time, I’d definitely recommend it. It looks beautiful!
Sam
Found your post doing research for traveling in Serbia next month and now I’m even more excited!! I only plan to spend about a week but I feel like that’s not gonna be enough!
Amy
Yay, I’m glad you’re looking forward to your trip! Serbia is great — I would love to get back to Belgrade, and even more I’d like to spend sometime in the stunning nature there.
Joel
Novi Sad is on top of my list of places to start a travelling base from. Also there’s Medellin, Colombia on my list. I have always met great people in Novi Sad and it’s probably my favorite place in Europe. Glad to read your similar views of the stay. Couchsurfing really does make meeting people exceptionally more easy. Go to the Couchsurfing weekly meetups and you’ll always make friends in most ever city actually. Also the Hostels we so great and staying with a Christian Youth Group during EXIT Festival was a blast!
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