Things to Do in Western Ukraine

For a country that’s about the same size as Texas, Ukraine is constantly surprising me with the depth of adventure it offers. In over two years of living here, my ‘to do’ list has grown, not shrunk, despite my best efforts. I’ve decided to use my quarantine time wisely to sketch out a couple of wishlists. This is the first — all the things to do in Western Ukraine that I dream of doing, the mountains, the castles, even the sanatoriums. I’m writing these as much for myself as for anyone else coming to visit Ukraine — and keeping it as inspiration for all the adventures to come.

DISCLAIMER: This is a wish-list. I haven’t been to all of these places. I have a full-time+ job. You go at your own peril, friends. 

I know there might be some contention on what is considered Western Ukraine. I referenced the distinctions drawn by Kyiv International Institute of Sociology.

Why visit Western Ukraine?

Maybe it’s because of the Carpathian Mountains, but when I think of Western Ukraine I think of a million little nooks and crannies with their own important story. It has a tapestried history — while Western Ukraine is often talked about as being the current heart of Ukrainian spirit and nationalism, a closer look shows that this region was fought over for centuries. 

It’s also relatively easy to travel around Western Ukraine, in part because of all its ski resorts and sanatoriums appealing to domestic tourists. Trains and marshrutkas connect the cities well (except, for some unfortunate reason, the stretch between Uzhhorod and Chernivtsi). Most of my own trips around the country have been in this region, including a ten-day Western Ukraine trip and two days horseback riding in the Carpathians.

But I think one of the reasons why Western Ukraine is so inviting is because of the diversity you can find there. Want to hike around mountains? Check! See some ruined castles from Austro-Hungarian times? Can do! Visit some of Ukraine’s most historic cities? Roger that! Whether you’re an expat here or just visiting, all the things to do in Western Ukraine will keep you busy for a while. It’s not going to be easy to seek out these adventures, but if you can, you’ll have an unforgettable trip to Ukraine. 

Lviv Oblast

Lviv

If there’s one place people go when they visit Ukraine, it’s usually to Lviv. The city center is a UNESCO World Heritage Site — and it’s no wonder why. Lviv managed to mostly avoid destruction in World War II, and some of the original architecture goes back to the 13th century. However, not everything survived. Lviv was a multicultural city for decades; one of its points of pride is its variety of churches. But like in many other cities, the Jewish community, along with its historic Golden Rose Synagogue, was destroyed in World War II. 

In modern times, Lviv is thriving. It’s famous for coffee, chocolate, and beer, and its restaurant scene is one of the best in the country. The skyline, spiked with dozens of church towers, is mesmerizing, and it’s rare to hear anyone talk about Lviv without a wistfulness in their voice. 

There is so much to do in Lviv, you could spend days there. It is a major tourist destination, even for Ukrainians, so to appreciate it fully try to avoid coming during the holiday season (though it is lovely at Christmas time). 

The Golden Horseshoe

Doable as a day trip from Lviv, the Golden Horseshoe claims to have some of the prettiest castles in Ukraine. Pidhirtsi Castle looks like something you would stumble upon in the gardens of Versailles. Olesko Castle was built in one of Ukraine’s most contented corners, an area that was constantly disputed over by the Polish, Lithuanian, and Hungarian empires. And Zolochiv Castle was built by a future Polish king’s father — it’s served as a barracks, a prison, and a school, but now it’s most famous for its charming pink Chinese palace. 

Truskavets

With the presence of mineral springs with ‘restorative’ effects, Truskavets came to prominence in the late 19th century as a resort town. This part of Ukraine was once under the Austro-Hungarian Empire, and Truskavets is still studded with charming alpine villas. There is a nearby ski resort, Bukovytsia, if you fancy a winter getaway. 

Svirzh Castle

It’s obvious by now that Ukraine’s castles are numerous, especially in the west where Poland and Austria-Hungary and Lithuania and Romania and… well, lots of people were fighting to get a few more acres. The fortress has been destroyed numerous times, but the reconstructed buildings resemble what we would have seen in the 17th century. With the river curling protectively around it, this is probably one of the prettiest private properties in all of Ukraine. 

St. George’s Church in Drohobych (and other wooden churches)

It’s hard not to be impressed by the wooden tservkas of Ukraine and Poland. These UNESCO World Heritage churches, sixteen in all, were built between the 16th and 19th century, and St. George has been recognized as one of the best preserved. Despite being made of humble timber logs, the interior is just as ornate as any other Orthodox church. 

Drohobych Salt Works

Drohobych also claims to be the site of the oldest salt works in Europe. Production dates back to the 13th century, though today’s operation isn’t quite as magnificent as it was in its peak. While the salt works’ facilities are in a state of neglect and disrepair, it still functions using traditional methods. 

Tustan Cliffside Fortress City and the Urych Cliffs 

Not much remains of the Tustan cliffside fortress city, though the modern imagination has made much of the stories of a long-destroyed fortress perched on the Urych Cliffs.  The Tu-Stan festival will bring the medieval times out of the rock to life though, with hand-to-hand combat, horse battles, fire shows, and the slightly less dangerous dances. 

Ternopil Oblast

Ternopil

Ternopil is one of my favorite underrated cities in Ukraine, a solid Lviv alternative. Because it’s smaller, it’s a little more intimate. I went one of the first weekends in May, and the church was non-stop wedding action. The city curls around a lake, making it perfect for an evening stroll.

Zalishchyky City and Dniester Canyon

While the most famous Horseshoe Canyon is in the States, Ukraine has its own version! The city of Zalishchyky is tucked into a little corner of the Dniester Canyon, making it one of the most photogenic cities in the country. The Dniester Canyon itself is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine.

Pochayiv Lavra

Ukraine is dotted with sites that are extremely holy to the Orthodox faith — the Pechersk Lavra in Kyiv (home of the monk mummies) is one of the most revered places in Orthodoxy. Pochayiv Lavra, first established in the 1500s, could almost rival its Kyiv sister in number of golden domes. It sits on top of a hill above the town like a crown.  

Bobsled Track in Krements

Rumor has it that there’s a wooden bobsled track in the Krements forest, where future Olympians train. One of the oldest of its kind, this track used to draw athletes from all over the world. Following the political upheaval in 2014 and the unrest in the Donbass, fewer international athletes come to Krements, but its 1000 meter track still serves local sportsmen. 

Optimistic Cave

Going underground can feel like going to outer space to discover a new planet — and it almost looks that way inside Optimistic Cave. The cave features gypsum, crystals, stalactites, and stalagmites, stretching some 250 kilometers, making it a runner-up for inclusion in the Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine. (There’s also apparently a Museum of Underground Sculptures, which honestly feels like something straight out of Moria.)

Terebovlia Viaduct

Normally I’m not one to make a big deal about a viaduct, but the photos I’ve seen of the Terebovlia Viaduct piqued my interest. The two stone bridges stand on either side of Terebovlia, built in the late 19th-century as part of the railroad expansion in the Austrio-Hungarian Empire. I’m not sure I’d recommend the trek for everyone, but if you have an interest in landscape photography it might be worth the visit.

Rivne Oblast

The Tunnel of Love

If there’s anything that’s Insta-famous in Ukraine, it’s the Tunnel of Love. Leafy tree cover forms a natural ‘tunnel’ over little-used railway tracks. It’s 3-5 km long (how can you measure where a tree tunnel stops?) and is frequented by families and couples, people doing photoshoots, and picnickers. Read about how to get to the Tunnel of Love.

Tarakanivskyy Fort

A derelict 19th-century fort, overgrown with trees and ivy? Sign up any average adventurer to that! Tarakanivskyy was built by the Russian Empire to be a stronghold on its border. Despite being a fort-turned-prison-turned-ruins, the place still holds a certain charm in its decrepit architecture. Be careful when visiting — walls have been known to collapse and there’s rumors there are still booby traps waiting to be sprung. 

Basalt Columns

The basalt quarry attracts people with the unusual geometric shapes of its volcanic rocks, some 30 meters tall. Part of the quarry was flooded, though a little island stuck out stubborn — naturally, in romantic Ukraine, it’s been dubbed the Island of Love.

Volyn Oblast

Svitiaz Lake

All the way in Ukraine’s northwest corner, tucked next to Belarus and Poland, is the country’s deepest lake. Svitiaz is one of more than twenty lakes in Shatsky National Park and is renowned for its clear water, making it one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine. The park is a popular tourist destination, so there are many water activities you can partake in while visiting Svitiaz. 

Lutsk

It would be remiss to mention Volyn and not mention Lutsk, the hometown of one of Ukraine’s most beloved poets — Lesya Ukriania. I went to Lutsk in November of 2019 and to be honest… it was a quiet weekend. Lutsk is famous for Lubart Castle, which graces the 200 hryvnia note. But what I loved about Lutsk was how it felt like a real Ukrainian city. Going to the market and seeing the massive cabbage shredder the average person used to fill up massive plastic bags was worth it for me — oh, and having dinner at a fancy restaurant with a view of the castle was also unforgettable!

Zakarpattia Oblast

Lake Synevyr

Svitiaz Lake may be Ukraine’s deepest lake, but Lake Synevyr might lay claim to being its most famous. At nearly 1000 meters above sea level and some 10,000 years old, Synevyr also is one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine. The legend goes (because of course there’s a legend about Lake Synevyr) that the lake was formed by the tears of Syn, a daughter of a count, when he killed her love, Vir. Gotta love a sob story.

Narcissus Valley

If you manage to catch the Valley of Daffodils in its annual superbloom, you are one of the lucky few. Every year for just a few weeks, tiny white star-like blossoms cover the meadow. The valley faced being razed in favour of agricultural plans, but narcissus champions ensured its survival. Narcissus Valley is part of the Carpathian Biosphere Reserve outside Khust. Unfortunately, it’s not easy to get here by public transport. I managed to catch a ride with a very nice couple who recognized me on the streets of Uzhhorod and invited me to join them. The valley was not at full bloom when we visited, but it was still worth it (to me).

Hoverla Mountain

Zakarpattia keeps it coming with the superlatives of Ukraine. Hoverla Mountain, stretching to just over 2,000 meters, is Ukraine’s tallest peak. It’s fairly popular, as it’s not an extreme hike. However, don’t attempt it in jeans or flip flops! It is a 7-8 km hike round trip from Zarosliak to the peak, do-able as a day hike. We were able to hike Hoverla in the summer of 2020, and it was an amazing experience!

Schönborn Castle

If you’re surprised to hear of a castle called Schönborn in Ukraine, well… so was I. Turns out Ukraine has a veritable palace hidden in the Carpathians, built in the late 1800s by an Austrian aristocrat. The building supposedly has astronomical significance hidden everywhere, with 365 windows, 52 rooms, and 12 entrances. These days it’s part of a sanatorium, though I’ve heard tourists can visit. 

Uzhhorod

Parked right at the border with Slovakia, Uzhhorod is a charming city with lots of Hungarian and Czech architectural influences. You can visit a well-preserved Hungarian castle in the city center (which, when I visited, was offering tastings of local Transcarpathian wine). However, the best thing about Uzhhorod is the sakura season! Surprised to find cherry blossoms in Ukraine? Me too! There are different stories about how the trees came to Ukraine, though it’s likely they were planted sometimes in the early 20th century. The Uzhhorod cherry blossoms have become an integral part of the city’s identity, with even a festival to celebrate them. If you want to see cherry blossoms in Uzhhorod, it’s best to come at the end of April or beginning of May — which, luckily, usually coincides with Ukraine’s May holidays!

Transcarpathian Museum of Folk Architecture and Life

Ukraine has excellent open-air ethnographic museums, and you can find one right in the heart of Uzhhorod. This museum has over 30 buildings from the Transcarpathian region, including an impressive 18th century wooden church. 

Mukachevo

Mukachevo is famous for Palanok Castle, a 14th to 18th century fortification that has played a significant role in the history of the region — mostly in revolts against the ruling Hapsburgs. It’s fun to poke around the castle and it makes for an impressive photo op above the city, but the best thing I did there was go to the wine cellar and sample half a dozen Transcarpathian wines.  

Geographical Center of Europe

There are, apparently, no less than half a dozen countries claiming to have the geographical center of Europe — which I suppose makes sense if you consider the fluid borders and far-flung colonies. However, in 1887 Austro-Hungaian geographers declared the geographical center of Europe to be outside a small Ukrainian town near the border of Romanian — a claim that was reaffirmed and championed by the USSR later. Whether it’s true seems… debatable, and whether it’s worth the visit is probably even more so.

Dragobrat Ski Resort

At 1,400 meters, Dragobrat is the highest ski resort in Ukraine, making the ski season extra long. Supposedly it’s a great place for freeriding — perhaps because its remoteness makes it a little less popular with the average traveler. We planned a Dragobrat trip for New Year’s Eve and had an unforgettable experience!

Sanatoriums

Sanatoriums developed as health-focused retreats for hardworking citizens during the Soviet times, and they remain quite a popular option for people on holiday. Because of the rejuvenating characteristics of nature, many sanatoriums can be found in the Carpathians. While some have a basic, no-nonsense approach to a healthy lifestyle, you can also find luxury sanatoriums that look like fancy spas. 

Chernivtsi Oblast

Chernivtsi

Having been ruled by the Polish, Romanian, Austrio-Hungarian, and Soviet empires, Chernivtsi could boast being Ukraine’s most cosmopolitan city. Though it’s no longer in its glory days, Chernivtsi still is a source of pride. It remains a cultural hub and a fine example of a range of different types of architecture — hence its old nickname, Little Vienna. Of course, its crowning jewel is the Chernivtsi State University, a WORLD Heritage Site and Ukraine’s red-brick Hogwarts. 

If you’d like to learn more about Chernivtsi’s history, I highly recommend Anne Applebaum’s travelogue Between East and West, tracing her journey from Vladivostok to Odessa in the early 1990s. 

Pamir Radar Station

Welcome to Soviet conspiracy theories. The Pamir Radar Station was, supposedly, built during the Cold War to provide coverage stretching basically from Turkey to the Baltics. After the collapse of the USSR, the station’s five bubbles were abandoned. Now, the only thing Pamir does is draw the curious traveler, willing to traipse up Mount Tomnatyk to see a modern relic.

Khotyn Fortress

I don’t know what makes Khotyn Fortress so impressive — if it’s the massive walls climbing straight to the tops of the towers, the commanding view it has of the Dniester River, or the way it looks straight out of Game of Thrones. While there are plenty of pretty castles in Ukraine, Khotyn is a not-kidding-around fortress, which has seen its share of battles. The first fortification in Khotyn was built into a serious stronghold in the 14th and 15th centuries, though perhaps that made it all the more attractive to the Polish-Lithuanians, the Cossacks, the Ottomans, and the Russians (to name a few). In 2007 it was named one of the Seven Wonders of Ukraine. You can read more about the finding castles in Ukraine here. 

Bukovyna Waterfalls

There are lots of waterfalls in Western Ukraine, too many to list them all. Bukovyna warrants inclusion because, in the voting for Ukraine’s Seven Natural Wonders, the waterfall just missed the bar by securing ninth place. Bukovyna is a series of seven waterfalls, ranging from three to eighteen meters in height, within walking distance of each other. 

Ivano-Frankivsk Oblast

Ivano-Frankivsk

If you want a sign that Ivano-Frankivsk is a bit different from the other major cities in Western Ukraine, just look at its city hall. Built in the 1930s, it showcases an intriguing Soviet Constructivist style that stands out. Of course there is more traditional neoclassical architecture (and plenty of churches), but the appeal of the city — to me — goes beyond that. It has a reputation of being an industrial city, but with six universities it also has the important undercurrent of student life.  It also makes a great jumping off point for some of the other must-do things in Western Ukraine. 

Kolomyya and the Painted Easter Egg Museum

Ok, so I know a museum of painted Easter eggs may not sound like your thing, but the pysanka is a pretty big part of Ukrainian folk art. Every year the square in front of Saint Sophia in Kyiv features a pysanka exhibition with dozens of gorgeously and provocatively designed eggs. Listen, I’m not saying an Easter egg museum is for everyone — but with over 10,000 pysanka in the collection, aren’t you a little intrigued?

Go horseback riding in the Carpathians

The Carpathians are a nature-enthusiast’s dream. Basically whatever you want to do in the great outdoors, you can do here. One bucket list item I crossed off a few years ago was doing a two-day horseback riding trip in the Carpathians close to Verkhovyna. We stayed overnight with a local dairy farmer who made us amazing food and talked about how life in the Carpathians was changing. It was perhaps one of my favorite local Ukraine experiences to date. 

Rafting in the Carpathians

There are several companies that provide rafting excursions in Western Ukraine, offering a wide array of difficulty and length. Some of the most thrilling can be done on the Black Cheremosh River in the Carpathians (though if you prefer staying dry as much as possible, you can find calmer rafting trips on the Dniester). 

The Carpathian Tram

There aren’t many narrow gauge railways left in Ukraine, but the Carpathian tram is still running for tour groups to show them the beauty of the mountains in an usual way. I need to be honest with you — even with research, I am still not 100% sure how the tram works. It seems that it’s included in tour packages or available for private rental. I only saw ‘regular’ travel times mentioned on one website, describing a four-hour route starting Vyhoda, as well as an eight-hour option. 

Bukovel

Bukovel is Ukraine’s biggest ski resort and a favorite destination for locals. Even as a non-skier, I really enjoyed the time I spent there with friends (it was face-freezingly cold though). Besides skiing and snowboarding, you can enjoy a banya, go tubing, and take photos with huskies. There’s also supposedly dog-sledding, though we could not, for the life of us, figure out where/how to do it. Bukovel is basically a Christmas fairytale in the winter, but it’s also a popular summer destination for hiking.

Yaremche

Not far from Bukovel is Yaremche, another well-loved ski resort. If you ask Ukrainian skiers and snowboarders, they might have a strong preference for one over the other. Yaremche is at a lower elevation, though some people find it more charming. But as the ski resort is just part of its appeal, Yaremche also draws in lots of people in the warmer months for hiking and relaxing in the mountains. We really liked the vibe in Yaremche in the summer, when we spent a lot of our day eating as much amazing Carpathian food as possible.

Khmelnytskyi Oblast

Kamianets-Podilskyi Castle

A Disney castle come to life, Kamianets-Podilskyi is one of the best things to do in Western Ukraine. The only way to make it even more magical is to fill the sky with hot air balloons, so lucky you — the Kamianets-Podilskyi hot air balloon festival happens twice a year in the spring and the fall. However, if you can’t make it for the balloon festival, as one of the 7 Wonders of Ukraine, Kamianets-Podilskyi is well worth the visit any time of the year.

Samchyky Village

The small village of Samchyky has done something a bit radical and painted the outside of their homes with vivid artistic murals. When it was discovered that only a handful of Samchykivskyi painting masters were still alive, cultural activists worked quickly to revive this Ukrainian folk art tradition. Now, over twenty houses and buildings are decorated with bright paintings of flowers and animals, and the Samchykivskyi painting method has dozens of devotees.

Bakota

Located in Podilski Tovtry National nature Park, one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Ukraine, Bakota is underneath sweeping views of the Dniester River. This village was submerged in 1981 when the New Dniester Hydroelectric Dam was built. Now, Bakota Bay is one of the most serene places in Ukraine. You can relax and enjoy the scenery or try to find the remains of the ancient cave monastery. 

So! That was my short list of the best things to do in Western Ukraine. If you have found hidden gems of your own, please leave a comment below. And look forward to my advice on what to see in the rest of Ukraine as well!