The Classic and Quirky of New Orleans

I’ve always sworn up and down that only place in the US I could enjoy living is New York. Even when I considered moving to LA it was with my hands over my eyes.

But ten minutes of biking down the sultry back streets of the French Quarter, I had to wonder—

Is there a second life waiting for me in New Orleans?

I never meant to feel this way about another US city – I never wanted to! – but there’s an undeniable charm in New Orleans. Romantic, delicate iron-wrought balconies, a middle-aged saxophonist parading down the street enraptured with his own creative process, older women who called us “babies” with such affection, and an overwhelming calmness – relax, New Orleans seemed to say. You’re going to love it here, but we’re not in a hurry to get married, you know.

New Orleans is unlike any other US city I’ve been to. It seems like a city frozen at its height, confident in itself during the years of now horribly dated modernization of the 60s and 70s, keeping herself classy and timeless.

But the other thing I loved about New Orleans was the contemporary culture that’s popped up in all the nooks and crannies of the city. Well, these places aren’t new per say, but they’re definitely not part of the New Orleans that I was aware of. So here’s a little bit of both, the classic and the quirky of New Orleans.

Classic: The Garden District

It wouldn’t be that hard to imagine myself living in one of these gorgeous houses, rousing late and entertaining guests in the parlor with tea and cookies. One of my favorite houses was the house where Confederate Jefferson Davis passed away, mostly because a ferocious cat was sprawled out in front of the gate.

Quirky: Algiers

Do you have a lot of time to burn in New Orleans? Hop on the $2 ferry to cross the Mississippi over to Algiers.

I’ll be frank with you guys, there’s very little happening in this sleepy neighborhood, or least there wasn’t when we were there. Cute cottages? Check. Requisite coffee shop and pub? Sure. But the absolute sell-point was…

A TARDIS!

If you’re a Dr. Who fan, this is one of the few TARDISs you can pop inside of (it takes you into the Crown & Anchor pub).

Classic: Mardi Gras

Even if you’re not visiting during Mardi Gras, you can find yourself a little piece of the party. Tucked above the Arnaud Restaurant is the Germaine Cazenave Wells Mardi Gras Museum, a small museum that displays gowns, masks, and photos from parties past. These were serious shin-digs, and Mrs. Wells was the most crowned woman in Mardi Gras history.

There’s also a Mardi Gras exhibit inside the Presbytere.

Quirky: Hare Krishna parade

Even if you’re not there for Mardi Gras, you still have a good chance of seeing people parading down the street, as we did with this Hare Krishna jubilee.

Classic: Bourbon Street

Ok, I’m an adult, but I still felt childishly delighted by walking down the street with a plastic cup of wine. Thursday night on Bourbon Street during the off-season was unimpressive, but we went wandering through again on Friday night and… well, we wandered for a while. We might have lost track of time.

If you go to Bourbon Street, make sure you walk aaaaall the way down to Lafitte’s Blacksmith Shop Bar. It’s the oldest continually operating bar in the US and runs mostly by candlelight. With reasonably-priced drinks and the romantic mood, you’ll be singing along with the piano player before you know it.

Quirky: Frenchmen Street

Frenchmen Street is no secret, but with the siren call of Bourbon Street’s epic nights, it might be easy for a weekender guest to miss it. Packed with more relaxed bars and chilled-out venues, it’s a nice wander as you nurse your drink and pause to listen to all the talented bands inside. We even got treated to a powerful performance from a young brass band on the corner.

Take a turn near Chartres St. to find the Frenchmen Art Market, an art and craft fair set up under twinkle lights but with the odd feeling of being in a living room from the furniture scattered around.

And there was so much I didn’t get to that was on my list – the St. Louis Cemetery, the New Orleans Museum of Art Sculpture Garden, Jacques-Imo’s, muffulettas. But I’m not worried. New Orleans was almost lackadaisical in her goodbye, not really caring that we were leaving before I was ready. It was almost as if she was saying, Go along, there’s no need to fuss. I’ll be right here like this when you come back. I’m not going anywhere.