Estonia Beyond Tallinn’s Old Town
There’s no denying how adorable Tallinn’s perfectly preserved Old Town is. An outstanding example of medieval architecture, a crowned UNESCO World Heritage gem, the city really does feel a bit like a place plucked out of the world of Harry Potter (as long as you go wandering before the cruise ship tour groups come marching in).
There are definitely several things you should do in the Old Town. Get dizzy walking up St. Olaf’s tower for stunning views of the city. Have a decadent hot chocolates at Chocolat du Pierre’s Josephine Café. And there’s not one, but TWO, medieval restaurants where you can drink honey beer or try to eat elk stew without a spoon.
But there’s more to the ‘medieval pearl of Europe’ than its charming Old Town. And this is a crucial reason why I advocate for more than just the breeze-through of Tallinn. If you only come on a day trip from Helsinki or stop for a night on your way through the Baltics, you’re going to miss the nuances of this vibrant city. Here are just a few of the things you can do beyond Tallinn’s Old Town.
Recall Soviet History
When you’re neighbors with one of the largest empires in the world, chances are they’ll leave their legacy at some point or the other. I tend to be more enchanted with Russia’s pre-revolutionary drama than its more modern history, but I do have this odd fascination with Soviet monuments. I never really considered them until I saw some in Bulgaria and Romania. There are some of the most unique structures I’ve ever seen, awe-inspiring by their size alone, usually.
There’s a Soviet monument within walking distance from Tallinn city center (or you can take the bus). It’s not especially intricate. But it is tall.
There’s also a bit of Soviet aviation history. I went on a day tour that stopped at a small Soviet pilot cemetery, hidden from the road by a line of trees. The grave markers were made from pieces of Soviet planes. Someone had recently come by and left candy and candles by the graves.
And if you want to see an actual Soviet plane, you can find one on a grassy field on the outskirts of town, guarded by a grumpy old man who looks like he might actually know how to fly it. I spent half a second looking down in the grass and accidentally found a bullet and instantly became the envy of everyone in my tour group. It seemed like a really unique souvenir until I realized it was a live round of ammunition and that wasn’t really something I wanted to carry around in my suitcase.
Drink Craft Brews with Hipsters
Tallinn’s newest blossoming neighborhood is Kalamaja, just outside the Old City. The people have taken over old Soviet industrial buildings and transformed them into the Telliskivi Creative City, full of cafes, eateries, and art. I went to Püdel to enjoy a delicious craft beer and some people watching.
I didn’t have time to check out the Balti Jaam train station flea market to scour the vendors for Soviet-era memorabilia. I’ll have to do it next time, in between sampling all the restaurants I am still aching to try.
Climb Around a 13th Century Monastery
“You could never do this in the US,” I kept saying as we climbed on the crumbled walls of a medieval monastery. There were no safety guardrails or barriers. You could climb through the maze as you pleased, descending into pitch-black basement rooms, teetering on two by four planks.
It’s nice to take a break from the over-cautious US sometimes. Just, you know, watch your step.
Pretend You’re in a Sci-Fi Movie
Another leftover of Soviet times is the Rummu Prison. Abandoned, graffiti-ed, and partially flooded, it looks like something from a post-apocalyptic movie.
No prison is complete without some sort of labor requirement, so an impressive, Mars-looking quarry rises up next to the river. You can climb up to the top. I just wouldn’t recommend running on the way down.
Enjoy Estonia’s Natural Beauty
I didn’t even get to Estonia’s lauded Lahemaa National Park, but the brief scenic stops we made on our day trip outside of Tallinn impressed me. We waded across the top of the third biggest waterfall in Estonia. We picnicked on cliffs, watching the fog roll in until we were suddenly engulfed in it. We skipped stones at the beach and discussed why exactly those stones were bleached white.
And for a relaxing retreat inside the city limits, you can walk (or take the bus) over to Kadriorg Park. You can wander around one of Peter the Great’s palace, find your inner calm at the Japanese garden, or linger around the Presidential Palace in hopes of meeting the Estonian president (seriously, who doesn’t want to meet Toomas Hendrik Ilves?).
There are some places that just hit your heart the right way. Even now, six months later, whenever someone posts a picture or a blog about Tallinn, I feel a twinge of regret that I’m not still there. Tallinn was one of my favorite new cities of 2015, not just for its medieval charm but for its whole complex, dynamic character that extends well beyond Tallinn’s Old Town. It’s a perfect destination for solo female travellers or anyone who’s looking for a slightly offbeat European destination – but don’t just breeze through! Come to Tallinn and stay a few days. There’s more to explore here than ye olde medieval times.
Interested in reading more about Tallinn? Here’s what other bloggers have to say!
Instagramming My Way Around Finland & Estonia by Matt at LandLopers
31 Photos Guaranteed to Make You Want to Visit Tallinn by Vicky at VickyFlipFlopTravels
Tallinn is a Baltic Fairytale by Miriam at AdventurousMiriam
A Guide To Tallinn Restaurants by Anders Husa on AndersHusa
6 Reasons Why Tallinn Is Perfect For Your Next European Adventure here at The Wayfarer’s Book
8 Comments
Dominique
Tallinn looks great! Did you visit all those places outside the city centre during a tour? I’ve set my sights on either the Baltics this year or the Balkan, it’s a tricky decision though because both places look amazing in their own right!
Amy
Many of them, but you can do the park, the Soviet monument, and Kalamaja on your own. I love Croatia and would love to explore more of the Balkans as well, so I feel your pain! I’d have a hard time choosing between the two too.
Miriam
Thanks so much for the mention, Amy! Happy travels 🙂
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Anna
I am planning to visit Estonia after one week. Do you remember where the Soviet plane is located? I can’t find it coordinates in internet 🙁 Please, could you help me?
Amy
Hi Anna! I don’t remember exactly where it is because I went on a day tour that took me there. I do remember it’s kinda far and out of the way — I doubt it would be easy to get there on your own. It actually might have been this tour: http://www.traveller.ee/tour/western-coast-and-paldiski — if not, it’s the same itinerary. Though we didn’t get to go inside the plane when we went.
If you ask at the tourism office when you get there I’m sure they’ll be able to give you more specific information!
Sanketa
Nice place and images also.
Thank you for sharing your experience with us.
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