Why I’m Moving to Kiev to Teach English
On February 26, 2016, I boarded a midnight plane flying direct to Kiev. I had scored an amazing $300 ticket, one way to the city that would launch the European part of my nomadic life. The plane didn’t have personal entertainment screens, but (unsurprisingly) there weren’t a lot of people flying to Kiev in the dead of winter and I was able to stretch out on the empty seats next to me. I still carry the ticket stub in my wallet, even though I’ve thrown out the other two dozen stubs from this year. Because what I thought was just the first stop on a six month romp through Europe became much more important to me.
I’ll be honest with you guys – I did not fall in love with Kyiv immediately. Moving to Kiev was nearly arbitrary, a decision made because of personal connections. And, as one of the few places where Americans can teach English in Europe, it was the perfect launch pad for my European travels. When I arrived it was bitterly cold still, and while I was thrilled to see my first snowfall of the winter, the gray skies and overall gloominess of March worked its way into my psyche. Still, Kyiv has a natural warmth to combat the cold. You can find it the hipster coffee shops, in hot mulled wine, in the hominess of borscht and varenyky, in the genuine friendliness and curiosity of the Ukrainians.
I started crushing hard.
Three months after moving to Kiev, I had my favorite places. I had a coffee shop under my apartment I’d write at. I had my favorite place (or two) for cocktails in Kiev. I was learning Russian (very poorly), starting to read advertisements on the metro that I had recently learned to use. But Kyiv is a city you can keep unpacking. Three months in and I was still discovering exciting new places. The restaurant with over 750 kinds of whiskey. The city beach. Even more coffee shops. Kiev is dynamic, bursting with secrets and potential, and I wanted to explore all its nooks and crannies.
So when the school I was teaching at offered me a full-time position starting in the fall, I jumped at the possibility of moving to Kiev. Yes, it means giving up being a nomad for a year. Yes, I am terrified that it will backfire on me, that I’ll not enjoy returning to teaching or Kyiv. But I’m obsessed with Kiev. I’m crazy about its chill people, its undiscovered atmosphere, its fierce character.
So there are a lot of reasons why I’m moving to Kiev. One of them is financial stability. My summer lifestyle of gallivanting around Europe as a digital nomad has not been sustainable. I’m not sorry I tried it, but I’m not sorry to give it up either. I no longer even want to be solely a freelance writer. I love writing and will continue to pursue specialized assignments, but I do not love spending 6+ hours a day staring at a computer screen just grinding out copy. I miss people. I’m ready to focus on teaching again – I have even sketched out a vague three-year plan, which will shock all the people who know spontaneous me.
And I miss it. I’m homesick for Ukraine. I was in Cluj a few weeks ago, treating myself to pasta carbonara, and I almost teared up because it reminded me of the pasta carbonara at one of my favorite Kiev restaurants. I almost cried. Over pasta. I want to buy my cappuccinos from coffee trucks again and become a regular at the National Opera House. I want to go hiking in the Carpathians, the leisurely kind where I only have to hike the parts when we can’t drive any further. I want to learn all about Ukrainian wines and Ukrainian craft beer. I want to have my friends over to dinner at my own apartment so we can gossip about our students and dream big travel dreams together.
And I’ve rarely been so taken by a whole people. Having just celebrated 25 years of independence, Ukraine is at a definitive moment in its history. This is a country that’s making itself right before our eyes. The air buzzes with hope and struggle, with difficulties and possibility. I think about the sacrifices Ukrainians have made for each other, and I almost start crying. (Why am I so weepy all of a sudden?) There are hundreds of conflicts in the world. There are dozens of issues that have caught my attention in the last year. I don’t know why Ukraine’s situation has moved me so much.
I just know I want to be there now.
So seven month after I first landed in Ukraine, I’ll be boarding another flight to Kiev. Just like the first time, I’m about to head off on an unpredictable adventure. But this time, I’m also heading home.
Have you ever been to a place that feels like home? Where was it?
If you’re coming to Ukraine, check out my Ukraine travel resources! It’s full of helpful hints and travel advice for this fantastic country!
And why can’t I seem to make up my mind about spelling it Kiev or Kyiv? It’s complicated. Basically, I spell it ‘Kyiv’ because that’s how the people who live there spell it and I want to respect that. I spell it ‘Kiev’ because that’s how people who don’t live there spell it and I need to show up in Google searches.
33 Comments
Megan
I completely get every word you are saying. No places feels so like home to me like Kiev. I tried going there so bad…. it just didn’t pan out like I needed it to this time. It was so bittersweet! But I am happy to be there for a short period of time before heading even more east 🙂
I spell it Kiev on blogs and Kyiv on FB or personal conversations. Most Ukrainians I know in Kiev spell it the Russian way actually. And I do it for SEO purposes just like you (although it is still up in the air of whether Google catches it or not). But I guess most of my time in Ukraine has been spent in Russian speaking areas, not Ukrainian areas… so most people always spell it Kiev, not Kyiv. Oh well 😛 Excited to see ya there soon!!!
Amy
I hope you like breezy days with toasty sunshine because we’re having the most AMAZING weather right now and I’ve never been so in love with this place! Too bad you’re only going to be in Kyiv a few nights, but you’ll have to give me all your other Ukraine tips so I have places to explore on the weekend.
My company spells it Kyiv so I think I’m a little biased, but no one has ever corrected me if I spell it Kiev. 🙂
Dominique
I know what you mean, I experienced the same with Edinburgh and ended up living there for three years 🙂 I need to go to Kiev though! You make it sound so awesome I can’t wait to visit it one day!
Amy
Can you come now? We are having the most PERFECT fall weather. 😉
Dominique
I have planned too many trips this fall; oh how I love to see the foliage change to orange! But how’s spring in the Ukraine? 🙂
Amy
Spring is amazing! I left at the end of May — the lilacs were blooming and the cafes were setting up their outdoor seating. May or June would be a splendid time to visit. 🙂
Dominique
I’ll keep that in mind 🙂
Ellen
Wow I’d never thought of Kiev as a place to teach English, but sounds like a perfect base. I can totally relate to feeling homesick for a place you fell in love with. I studied abroad in Istanbul and I miss it so much!
Amy
Istanbul was my original idea when I got my CELTA. I visited twice that year and definitely believe I’d be happy there for a while. Unfortauntely, I haven’t gotten to work there yet, but there’s still a chance for the future. 🙂
Eva Casey
The more I see and read of Kiev from you the more I feel like I would love it!! Traveling through the Baltics now I totally understand what you mean about countries making an actual effort to survive. We take for granted that the USA is an independent country and will stay that way, but the people in these regions know that it could all be gone if they don’t hold on to what they’ve got! I’m not sure if that makes any sense, since I’m still processing everything I’m learning here, but it’s so interesting! Here’s to an amazing year in Kiev, I’m glad you’ve found home!
Amy
Girl, there are so many cute coffee shops you would LOVE. Yeah, last year in Tallinn was definitely one of the first times I experienced a ‘new’ country. Traveling in Europe this summer, from Kiev to the Balkans to Normandy to a brief pit stop in Berlin, it’s been a crazy eye opening experience about history, culture, and modern conflict. I’m hoping to be a keen (and respectful) observer while I’m here in Kiev!
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Audi
Just came back from Kiev and odessa
After Istanbul trip
I find Ukrain is the most interesting place and cheapest country ever. People so nice and smiley face. I love it and I must get back there asap
Iam regular traveler around the world. Don’t know how on earth Ukrain was not on my travel list for last 15 years.
Ukrain is live cheap beautiful love the people love the test. Will make it my home soon
Amy
I’m glad you enjoyed your trip! Yes, Ukraine — despite being the BIGGEST country in Europe — is kind of a hidden gem. It’s starting to gain more popularity though, as people visit and spread the word, so it’s good you visited before the tourist boom starts. 🙂
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Aviad
Hi Amy,
Thanks for writing about this. I’m planning to go teach there in the summer of 2018 during July and August. I’m currently looking for places that might employ me for as little as 2 months, maybe short summer courses.
If there is anything you might know that might aid me I’d be in your debt.
Was fun reading about your experiences and positive words about Kiev. Thanks for putting all of this info online.
Amy
Hi Aviad! I’m glad to be helpful! July and August is a tricky time. I’d say you’re best bet is looking for employment at kids’ summer camps. Adult classes often shrink in the summer because people go on vacation (especially in August), though you might find some work as a substitute teacher (because teachers also like going on vacation in August!). But yes, I’d say focus on camps or see if any language centers offer summer intensives to their students.
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Nadiia Konina
Hi Amy! What a great article 🙂 My partner is looking at moving to Kiev for a year and I was wondering if you know of any places where he could apply for a teaching job that’d help him get a long term visa? Did you have to apply for one? He is an aussie so he needs a visa even for a short term stay. It would help a lot if you could give us any tips at all 🙂
Amy
Hi Nadiia!
I was super lucky in my job search — my first choice offered me a job, along with the necessary paperwork, so I’m not quite so familiar with what the Kyiv schools all offer. Off the top of my head, International House Kyiv, London School of English, and I think DEC help with getting visas. Other schools that I know have expats working there are Grade and Progress, but I don’t know if the schools helped them or not.
Ukraine is getting a little more strict with visa compliance, which I hope will motivate more schools to offer legal employment to expats. I would just suggest, as he’s sending emails and making inquiries, that he is very clear he needs the employer to help with the paperwork — he might also want to ask if he can chat with current expat employees at the school to hear about their experiences. Any hesitation on their part should be a red flag.
Jeffrey M. Brown
Hello Amy.
I like your spirit.
I will be taking the blended Celta in 2018, just not sure where yet. I want the experience to be enjoyable, and not regimented like the month long cram course.
Until then, I will take a 120 hour on- line TESOL course this month.
My question to you is, can I find work teaching in Kiev without the Celta in hand, but with a B.S. Degree and a TESOL cert, on line? I don’t mind the least school among them all. Also, could I find private tutoring work if I advertised. Thank you Amy. Be safe!
Respectfully, Jeffrey Brown.
Kiersten
Pryvit!(Hello)
I am Ukrainian and living in America and I plan on being in Ukraine the next year or two, I would love talk with you about your trip as I have not been back to Ukraine in almost 13 years. Hope you enjoy it!
Spasibo(thank you)
Amy
Of course, I’d be happy to talk about it! You can email me at amyrbutler@gmail.com. 🙂
JD
Any advice for a financially challenged American
dude whose only ‘connections’ are to the memories of deceased family whom I was caregiver for last two decades? Accomodation/employment. Etc.
I have a B.A. and teaching experience.
Amy
Hi JD,
A BA and teaching experience can open a lot of doors! You won’t be making very much money from the start, but there are a few ways you can get your foot in the door. Try checking out the EPIK, TaLK, and JET programs, which operate in South Korea and Japan. I’m not sure of all the requirements, but they are frequently used by people to see if teaching is for them.
For someone who is interested in teaching long term, I would definitely recommend looking into getting a TEFL certificate to approach it professionally (I highly recommend the CELTA, but there are other options). There are still places you can teach without a teaching certificate, if you’re not ready for the investment, but the difficulty there is that they typically won’t cover your flight or accommodation. If you’re looking to start down that path, I’d recommend checking out countries in SEA or South America (I haven’t even traveled to South America so I can’t help much there, but you can check out this interview I did with Susan Griffith, author of Teaching English Abroad).
I hope that gives you some ideas! Best of luck.
NATHAN TANCULA
Hey,
i am living in Wroclaw, Poland. What do salaries look like in Kiev?
Amy
Hi Nathan!
I’m actually in Wroclaw now. 🙂 Great city!
Salaries in Kyiv can be… well, small. For a teaching position I would say you’re looking at 800 USD or less even at the most respected language schools. However, a lot of times you get included benefits, like accommodation, which increases the value of the package. Sometimes you also get extra perks like bonuses for traveling to in-company clients. You can probably make more working at an international school, though the job requirements are often more demanding.
However, it’s crazy cheap in Ukraine. I had a great quality of life when I was living in Kyiv, even though my salary was half of what I was making in New York. I wasn’t really saving much, but that was also kinda because I wasn’t budgeting very carefully. I took trips all the time, ate at mid-range restaurants whenever I felt like it, went out with friends for cocktails. I didn’t go crazy but I was living my best life. 🙂 Once I started budgeting a little more carefully I started saving some.
Basically — with the low cost of living you should be able to live a comfortable life, but you’re not going to be saving much.
Hope that helps!
Amy