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The Best Things To Do in Winter in Ukraine

Dark, freezing, dismal — these might be the words some people associate with Eastern European winter, and on one hand they’re not wrong. It can be all those things. But it can also be breath-taking(ly beautiful), exciting, and cozy. It’s really a choose-your-own-adventure opportunity. To give you a glimpse of that range of activities you can find, here are some of the best things to do in winter in Ukraine.

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Ski in the Carpathians

They might not be the Alps, but the Carpathians still offer half a dozen resorts for skiing and snowboarding. From the posh hotels of Bukovel to the more remote heights of Dragobrat, snow bunnies will be busy. The Carpathians are actually a great place to learn to ski because equipment rental and ski passes are super affordable compared to other destinations. And if you don’t ski — no worries — there’s still plenty for you to enjoy. Read more about visiting Bukovel here and check out our New Year’s Eve Dragobrat trip!

The view of the snowy Carpathians from a snow lift.

Warm up in banyas and chans

Freezing cold countries usually have some kind of method of warming you up, and Ukraine is no different. If you come to Ukraine in the winter, definitely make sure you book a hotel with a banya! A banya is a sauna, usually with a colder plunge pool. You can also get swatted with veniki, bundles of birch or oak branches, which is supposed to help increase the effects of the banya. While banyas are pretty prolific around the country, chans usually are found in the Carpathians. These hot tubs might look like the giant’s soup pot in a fairytale, a fire built right underneath a giant cast iron bath, with spices and herbs thrown in to make it all the more tasty — er, relaxing. The trick to both the banya and the chan is dipping between hot and cold. Ask if your chan is near a mountain stream for plunging.

Soak in Zakarpattian thermal spas

If a banya or chan isn’t enough for you, you can visit the thermal springs of Zakarpattia. There’s not a lot of information out there about these Carpathian resorts outside of Uzhhorod, but Trip Advisor and the town of Kosino/Koson with its Ivancso Birtok resort are good places to start.

Shop at the holiday markets

Most of the major cities have cute holiday markets set up in their main squares — but to me, the only thing to buy there is glintwein. To find some truly unique holiday presents (including for yourself!), head to one of the holiday markets or flea markets run by city businesses. My favorite is the Всі. Свої holiday market, which is filled with local Ukrainian businesses and runs on the weekends at their massive 12 Desyatynna Street location. Another favorite is the Kurazh Bazar, seen below. It’s a mix of small businesses, vintage re-sellers, and whacky knick-knacks, held in the VDNH Expocenter.

Glide through the snow by sledding or sleighing

Maybe you’re not into skiing and snowboarding — not a problem! You can whip through the snow in a horse-drawn sleigh or slide down the hills on a sled. Some resorts even offer dogsledding! Take advantage of these activities that you can only do during Ukraine’s winter. With any animal activities, please do your research to make sure that the animals are being treated well.

Rent your own chalet in the Carpathians

Every fall, my Instagram explodes with pictures of cozy cabins tucked into snow covered forests, geotags naming places like Finland and Colorado. But it’s not so hard to find a similar hideaway in the Carpathians — and if you book a chalet in Ukraine there’s a few extra bonuses. Not only will you have a spacious forest fortress against the winter, but it’s almost a given that it will come with a chan or maybe even a sauna. The cabins in the Carpathaians are extremely affordable, especially if you’re going with a group of friends, and the options run the gambit from modern to rustic. Pick your secluded Carpathian rental from my dream list or check out some of the glammest chalets here. (Pst, you don’t even have to go to the Carpathians to find a nice wintery retreat. Check out this place near Poltava, this lake house near Kyiv, and these cozy cottages in Kyiv city limits.)

Visit the Chinese New Year Lantern Festival

In recent years Kyiv has begun to celebrate the Chinese New Year by filling one of its parks with giant, jewel-toned lanterns. Not only is it fun to wander around the whimsical displays, but the festival also has entertainment — including fire dancers! While the festival is outdoors during the chilliest months, food and drink stands will help keep you warm.

At night, giant lanterns depicting a turtle and other underwater sea life light up the snow.

Stay in a sanatorium

In the early 20th century, sanatoriums used to be the place to go to get rested and rejuvenated. Modern sanatoriums — well, they run the gambit when it comes to services, but some of them have taken the principles of health-focused relaxation to new levels. You can find sanatorium complexes that will receive you with a full health screening, advise you on your diet and activities, and provide an individualized approach to your health. You can also find sanatorium complexes that simply offer a quiet natural retreat from the stress and anxiety of our daily lives. Read more about unusual places to stay in Ukraine here.

See enchanted snow-covered castles

Castles in Ukraine are supremely underrated, from the fairytale turrets of Kamianets-Podilskyi to the medieval fortress of Bilhorod-Dnistrovskyi. While winter doesn’t really offer prime castle-viewing conditions, it’s a unique time to visit (for the brave). Just make sure that you bundle up and prepare for some parts of the castle to be closed for the season.

A long-short of Ukraine's Kamianets-Podilskyi Fortress, famous for its turrets.
Like this! But with snow on it!

Peep the animals at Ukraine’s nature parks

Ukraine has several parks that showcase the diverse animal kingdom. And while it’s more common to visit them in the summer, you can get dreamy winter vibes by visiting Ukraine’s nature parks in winter. While Askania-Nova, one of Ukraine’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, moves its warm-weather residents into a sheltered place and closes its zoo, you can usually still visit the steppe with its buffalo, deer, and horses. Call or email to find out exact details of the excursions available. Closer to Kyiv is the Beremitske Nature Park, another reserve that celebrates flora and fauna. Here you can see Polish ponies romp in the snow. You can even rent a house and enjoy the natural beauty a little longer.

Watch the Nutcracker at the ballet

This is one of my favorite things to do in winter in Ukraine. Ukrainian opera houses don’t quite reach the exterior grandeur of other famous buildings — once you slip inside and immerse yourself in plush red velvet and dazzling gilded details, you see that they rival what you can find in European arts hotspots like Vienna. In fact, the Odessa opera house was designed by one of the most in-demand architectural teams in the Austro-Hungarian Empire. Ballet and opera performances are also very affordable in Ukraine, so you can experience the delight of the innocent classic The Nutcracker while also sipping on champagne.

My parents, a middle-aged woman and man, posing in the Odesa Opera house. The curtain, red with gold embroidery, is down, and people are still taking their seats.
My parents at the Odesa Opera House during their first visit to Ukraine.

Celebrate Orthodox Christmas in Lviv

Perhaps the best thing about living in Ukraine is getting two Christmases, as Orthodox Christmas is celebrated on January 7th. You can dine on the 12 dishes of Christmas Eve and watch koliadky, the carolers performing in traditional costumes. While you can celebrate in any part of the country, I recommend experiencing Orthodox Christmas in Lviv. The Christmas markets in the main square, against the backdrop of Ukraine’s most charming city, create an unforgettable holiday atmosphere.

Early morning in the main square of Lviv, where pastel townhouses rise on the left and a church peeks up in the background.
The main square of Lviv is even more magical with snow and its annual Christmas market.

Ring in the New Year’s in Kyiv

Since religion was outlawed under the Soviet Union, New Year’s came to overshadow Christmas during the holiday season. While it is traditionally a family celebration, in recent years it has spilled out onto the streets. You’re still unlikely to find the revelry of some capital cities, but if you find yourself in Ukraine over New Year’s, you should spend it in Kyiv. Head to Saint Sophia Square to see the New Year tree, drink glintwein, and watch the holiday performances. The bars and clubs will also be working, so if you prefer to party inside, keep an eye out for tickets to the trendier places — or just try to squeeze your way in.

The New Year's Tree in front of Saint Sophia's church. It's just become dusk, and the tree and church are lit up, while the people are in shadow.

Visit the chilling Chernobyl site

I imagine that visiting Chernobyl in winter would be brutal — but also that it would heighten the eeriness and loss that surrounds the site. I haven’t been yet myself, but you can see pictures and read more about visiting Chernobyl in winter here.

Ice skate at the VDNG Expo Center

While Kyiv, as a city, doesn’t allow for very large ice skating rinks, there are a few that are wonderfully atmospheric. If you were to pick one, I would recommend the ice skating rink at the Soviet-ero VDNG Expo Center. Not only will you be able to wander around this architectural gem, but you can enjoy some glintwein from the Christmas market — way more festive than the big indoor ice skating rinks at the malls.

An outdoor ice skating rink in Kyiv, with red flags strung above the rink and a Soviet-era expo building in the distance.

Take the icy plunge for Epiphany

A religious holiday that managed to survive the oppression of the Soviet Union, Epiphany celebrates Jesus’ baptism in the Jordan River. To commemorate it, believers take a dip of their own — but in rather colder waters. Participants either have to rush into a frigid river or jump into a hole cut in a frozen lake to get the rejuvenation they seek. While you might not want to join in on the Epiphany celebrations, being a courteous observer to either a church service or the plunges themselves is sure to leave an impression. Epiphany is celebrated in the Ukrainian Orthodox Church on January 19.

Enjoy the great indoors

It’s a bit of a cheat to include this on a list of winter activities in Ukraine, but I also can’t end without it! Even in the dead of Ukrainian winter, you can enjoy yourself here — albeit in a different way than you can when the weather is sunny and warm. No need to go outside! You can enjoy the many museums, wine and cocktail bars, quest rooms, hip cafes, art exhibitions, delicious restaurants, and endless bowls of borscht.

There are plenty of things to do in winter in Ukraine if you know where to look! I hope that you come to visit the country and experience the cozy season for yourself.

Important information: If you want to enjoy Christmas in Ukraine, make sure you time it correctly! Since Ukraine traditionally celebrates Orthodox Christmas, on January 7, many of the markets and other festive activities don’t kick off until mid-to-late December.

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