Three Days in Gdansk, Poland
Of all the cities on our Polish road trip, Gdansk is the one that I squirreled away the most time for, taking advantage of the fact that I was planning this trip and my family was not. Sure we spent plenty of time in Krakow and did the necessary dip into Warsaw, but I knew that a solid three days in Gdansk was necessary to see all Poland’s coastal queen had to offer.
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Why Visit Gdansk?
As Poland’s major port to the Baltic Sea, Gdansk has played a pivotal role in a few major historical events. Like many Polish cities, in the Middle Ages it saw a rotation of emperors. In the interwar period it was established as the Free City of Danzig – which was a tantalizing prospect for the growing Nazi regime next door. The Battle of Westerplatte at Danzig set off World War II as the Nazis seized the city and invaded Poland.
Danzig suffered horribly under the Nazi reign of terror. When the Nazis were finally expelled from the city and Gdansk went to Poland, around 90% of the city had been destroyed and fewer than 10,000 Poles still lived in it. Throughout the following decades, the city gained strength. The Gdansk shipyards were the spark that ignited anti-communist demonstrations and ultimately led to the fall of the communist regime.
Now, Gdansk is thriving. As a tourist destination, Gdansk has been, for a long time, overshadowed by Krakow and Warsaw. But its popularity is rising, and with an increasing number of direct flights from other European countries, you can use these three days for a packed Gdansk city break. Having a car is definitely helpful but not necessary. Most of the places in this three day Gdansk itinerary can be reached by public transport or by joining a tour.
Day 1: Get to know Gdansk
Look, it’s hard to pick the prettiest city in Poland, but if we were voting I would pick Gdansk. After the destruction of World War II, the city was rebuilt, largely in 17th century style — this was not without controversy, as the reconstruction excluded the Germanic influences on the city’s prewar architecture.
Sashay down the Royal Route, keeping up the tradition of Polish kings. Between the Highland Gate (Brama Wyżynna) and the Green Gate (Zielona Brama), you can see most of the architectural highlights of Gdansk. Stop along Long Lane (Ulica Długa) to see the Main Town Hall (climb the steps if you’re looking for great views!) and Long Market (Długi Targ), where the famous Neptune Statue stands.
Take a stroll down Długie Pobrzeże to get a feel for Gdansk’s maritime culture. The Crane of Gdansk was integral to its rise as a trading center. First built in the 14th century (wooden structures have a tendency to burn down or get otherwise destroyed), the Crane was used for nearly 500 years. After being almost completely destroyed during World War II, it was reconstructed and converted into a museum on maritime life and culture.
You can also get into the water yourself! There are a few different water activities you can try along Długie Pobrzeże. But if you opt for kayaking, just make sure to watch out for the bigger vessels using the waterway!
Learn about the first shots of World War II at the Westerplatte Monument. It’s slightly out of the city center, but the area is well worth the visit. While few of the battlements of the fortress remain, there are informational posters detailing the invasion by the Nazis and the attempts of the troops at Westerplatte to fight them off. (If you don’t have time to do this on your first day in Gdansk, we managed to stop here after our day trip to Malbork Castle.)
Find out about the history of the Solidarity movement at the European Solidarity Centre. The European Solidarity Centre, which chronicles the beginning of the shipyard protests, the birth of the Solidarity union, and the stalwart spirit that eventually brought the communist regime to its knees, is one of the most inspiring museums I’ve ever been to. It’s huge, and you could spend several hours there, so give yourself plenty of time — and don’t be afraid to breeze through some sections or your brain might go into overload.
You can explore Gdansk on your own or you can join a walking tour. There are free walking tours in Gdansk, but if you pick one of these please do tip your tour guides nicely. I learned recently that some of these free tour companies make their guides pay a fee for each participant — even if they didn’t tip!
Normally I don’t recommend traveling to Europe in August — it’s both peak tourist season and peak holiday season, which means in some places lots of bars and restaurants are closed. However, the cool thing about visiting Gdansk in the summer is you can be there during the St. Dominic’s Fair! This annual festival was first established in 1260, and its modern iteration is still a lively mix of craft, music, and food. It spreads all over the city center, and while some of the vendors are selling cheap mass produced trinkets, you can also find some really cool handmade goods.
Hungry? I recommend getting pierogi at Pierogarnia u Dzika. They were standout during a 2 week road trip when I ate plenty of pierogi.
Day 2: Enjoy Poland’s Coast
Gdansk is part of the Tri-Cities, linked with the nearby cities of Gdynia and Sopot. Both offer seaside access, and you can reach both via public transport. They are small enough that you can enjoy both in one day, but we chose just to go to Sopot since we had been doing a lot of driving.
Sopot is famous for having the longest wooden quay in Europe, letting you stroll out over the Baltic Sea. Besides lounging on the beach, you can also take a boat trip. They had small super-speedy boats for thrills and cruise boats for a more relaxing trip. One of the coolest options I saw was a catamaran boat that offered sunset cruises – less than $20 for 90 minutes, as I understood.
Sopot is also known for its Crooked House (looking at you, Instagram influencers) but honestly I felt like it was a let down. There are too many people in the way to get a decent shot, there’s a Costa Coffee in it, and it’s got loads of adverts around the door. Don’t come to Sopot just for that.
For anyone with a bit of an architectural interest, Gdynia is known for having excellent examples of modernism. Modernist architecture isn’t for everyone — its simple and unadorned qualities contrast sharply with Gdansk’s ornate facades — but for those who are into it, you might want to stop in Gdynia.
If you’re doing a Polish road trip and have a car, check out Słowiński National Park. I really wanted to see Poland’s sand dunes, but the park is a good 90 minutes away from Gdansk. We had been doing a lot of driving up to that point, so we decided to just go to Sopot.
Day 3: A Day Trip to Malbork Castle
Malbork Castle is the real-life version of any stalwart fortress you’ve seen in Game of Thrones or Lord of the Rings. The entire time we were exploring this UNESCO World Heritage site, I felt like I was living out my Zelda-playing childhood – look here’s a treasure chest – and now you’ve walked into a room full of armor!
This immense castle was first constructed in the 13th century by the Teutonic Knights, the incredibly serious, no fun-and-games Catholic militant order. It was the world’s largest brick castle then and it remains the world’s largest castle by territory size. The castle never fell to enemy invaders (though it was sold!). It was nearly demolished by World War II, but since then has been amazingly restored. Visiting Malbork is one of the reasons you need a full three days in Gdansk.
We went in our rental car and picked up audio guides from the ticket office. (They have loads of languages and even a ‘simplified English’ version.) I highly recommend booking tickets in advance, as there were long lines. Make sure you save several hours to visit Malbork Castle. It might not take a full day if you have a car, but it can be a draining day trip from Gdansk. If you don’t have a car, you can take a train there and back. There are several options, both in length of journey and price point.
Where to stay in Gdansk
We managed to get affordable rooms in Hampton by Hilton in the Old Town, which was right off Ulica Długa. The location was excellent and the rooms were comfortable. Another bonus — there was a parking garage below the hotel that you accessed via elevator. Remember to request a parking spot when you reserve your room!
I definitely recommend staying somewhere in the Old City of Gdansk. The streets get really crowded during the day; if you stay on Ulica Długa you’ll be able to enjoy a quieter city in the morning or evening. Check out the best prices for Gdansk hotels before you go!
Driving in Gdansk
Driving in Gdansk, like in most Polish cities, can be a bit awful. It was especially manic because St. Dominic’s Festival was going on, which meant some streets were shut down and there were more people wandering around without paying attention. If you’re taking your car out, I definitely recommend leaving as early in the day as possible. Drive carefully, because most people just step out into the street without looking.
Planning a trip to Poland?
Check out the other places we stopped at on our Polish road trip — Lodz, Torun, Wroclaw (Krakow and Warsaw coming soon)!