Two Days in Wroclaw on a Polish Road Trip

Wroclaw, with its historic atmosphere but very local energy, is one of my favorite cities in Poland. Maybe I’m biased because I spent two months there in the summer of 2018, working on my Delta Module 2, but I’m not alone — it was dubbed a European Union Capital of Culture in 2016. Two days in Wroclaw will give you a chance to see what the city has to offer and check out the surrounding countryside, complete with castles and churches, making it a perfect addition to a Polish road trip. 

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Why visit Wroclaw?

Because of its position, Wroclaw has been under the rule of half a dozen empires, resulting in a unique blend of architecture and culture. It was also one of the final bastions of the Nazis during World War II, and the efforts to reconstruct it following its destruction are remarkable. During the Soviet regime, Wroclaw buzzed with opposition. Citizens would paint anti-Soviet slogans on the walls and tag them with a picture of a dwarf as a form of protest. Since then, the dwarves (sometimes called gnomes) has become a symbol of the city, and a common tourist challenge is to find as many dwarf statues as possible. 

Wroclaw is also home to a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Centennial Hall. It was built in 1913 to celebrate the 100th anniversary of the victory over Napoleon at Leipzig. It still hosts concerts, and you can check out the repertoire on the Centennial Hall website. 

Having a car in Wroclaw means that you can visit many of the region’s attractions. While there is a lot to see just outside of the city, there are not many organized Wroclaw day trips, so it’s best if you have your own wheels. This region has numerous castles, picturesque parks and towns, two UNESCO World Heritage churches that are worth the visit, especially if you have at least two days in Wroclaw. 

Day 1: Wroclaw

Start your day with a tour of Wroclaw to get an overall feel of the city and a basic understanding of its history. There are various walking tours, free and paid, or you can opt for a golf cart tour of Wroclaw. The best place to pick up a golf cart tour is on the Salt Square near the Market Square. We chose this option for both time and ease of travel. If you opt for a free tour, please remember to tip your guide! 

Pay a visit to the Panorama of Racławice. This giant, 114 meter long painting depicts a crucial battle in 1794 as Poland struggled for its independence. While the Polish won that battle against the Russians, they lost the overall fight for freedom. During the Soviet period, the authorities refused to display it, fearful of the patriotism it could incite. It finally went on display in 1985 in Lviv before being moved to Wroclaw. Displayed in the rotunda as a circular mural, it’s a fascinating work of art, with the realism of the painting heightened by some clever staging of props. A half hour recorded audio guide describes the history of the battle and the painting itself. I’d recommend going early so you don’t have to share the space with so many people. Tickets are available online.

Keep your eyes open for the hundreds of dwarf statues in Wroclaw. The anti-communist symbol has become a city symbol, and now when new businesses open they often commission a dwarf statue. Outside of our hotel, there was a little statue of a dwarf in bed. 

Find the best photo spots in Wroclaw! There are pretty great views at every turn in Wroclaw. Walking along the river gives you postcard-perfect shots of Cathedral Island. You can climb up several of the church towers for bird’s-eye views. For the best views of the Market Square I’d recommend going up St. Mary Magdalene’s or St. Elizabeth’s.

If you’d prefer to have some time just to relax (one of the best things to do in Wroclaw!), you can walk along the river or take a boat cruise. Wroclaw is known for its islands and bridges, and one of the best islands is Wyspa Słodowa. A small island that is mostly grass and trees, it’s the one place where the authorities turn a blind eye to public drinking, making it a favorite hangout for locals. There are also a few boats-turned-bars moored up to the island.

If the weather is nice, you can go to one of the multimedia fountain shows at Centennial Hall. In the summer the shows run every hour, and special shows operate on Friday and Saturday nights. Information is subject to change from year to year, so check local Wroclaw websites for the most up-to-date times and dates. 

Day 2: Day trip from Wroclaw

There’s a lot you can see as part of a Wroclaw day trip, so much that you might enjoy it more if you break it up into two different days. However, if you are short on time and don’t mind an early start, you can pack a lot into one trip.

Start with the Church of Peace in Świdnica. The history here is fascinating — and shows how petty European monarchies can be. Following the peace treaty that ended the 30 Years’ War between the Catholic powers and the Protestant countries, the Lutherans of the region were allowed to build three churches in this overwhelmingly Catholic area.

However, there were stipulations that made it into an almost Survivor-like challenge. The Lutherans had to build the churches within a year, were not allowed to add belfries, and could only use perishable materials — which meant no nails! Amazingly, the Lutherans managed to pull it off. Two of the three Peace Churches have survived and have been beautifully maintained — probably because now they’re allowed to use nails. 

Next, check out the home of one of the church’s patrons. The Hochberg family donated two thirds of the lumber needed to build the church in Świdnica. They lived nearby in Książ Castle, one of the largest castles in Poland.

While a few of the rooms have been restored to their former Baroque glory, most are pretty bare. The main draw of this castle is the grounds and the history. Much of the castle’s posted information follows the life of the last princess who lived there, Princess Daisy. She joined the family through marriage, but she’s clearly the local favorite. She did in a lot of humanitarian effort leading up to and through World War I, which helps visitors connect the history of the family and castle to the larger historical events. 

The castle and grounds can easily entertain you for half a day – don’t miss the look out point which is a short walk from the main gate. Definitely buy your tickets beforehand — if you have data, you can even buy them online once you get to the castle grounds. 

If you want a more relaxed day or more time in Wroclaw, those two sites are enough for your day trip. We called it quits after Książ Castle — and hallelujah, because a huge traffic jam on the road back to Wroclaw meant our trip time home was doubled. 

But if you have the time and the inclination, you can make your way to the second surviving Peace Church, located in Jawor. If castles are more your style, this region is rich in them. If you didn’t have a chance to visit the Moszna Castle like we did, driving to Wroclaw from Krakow, then that’s also an option. However, Moszna is on the opposite side of Wroclaw and will add significant driving time, so be prepared for a full day!

If you have additional time in Wroclaw or the greater Lower Silesia region, you can check out some of the mountains, parks, and smaller towns along the border with the Czech Republic. There’s even a bone chapel in Czermna! It’s a rich region with plenty of opportunities to get off-the-beaten track in Poland!

Places to Eat in Wroclaw

One of the most unique places to eat in Wroclaw is under the train tracks! A bunch of restaurants and bars have repurposes the structure under the high-rise tracks leading out of town to create a cool little strip of eateries and drinkeries.

Etno OVO Cafe is a great spot for a quick breakfast, especially if you’re checking out the Panorama of Racławice in the morning.
Bułka z Masłem has a charming garden and serves up crowd-pleasing burgers and pizza.
Charlotte is one of my favorite breakfast chains in Poland, tastefully recreating the perfect pastry-filled French breakfast. They also do sandwiches and such for lunch.

You have a plethora of craft beer pubs in Wroclaw, but my favorite remains Kontynuacja. 
For vegan diners, Wroclaw is a welcoming place. Check out Vega and Krowarzywa.
You can satisfy all your pierogi cravings at Pierogarnia Stary Młyn. 
It would be a crime for me to not mention the amazing paczki in Wroclaw. Stock up for your day trip by grabbing freshly baked donuts at Nasza Pączkarnia. 

Places to Stay in Wroclaw

There are a lot of affordable options in Wroclaw, no matter your budget. We stayed in the Hotel Patio, which was pretty comfortable and centrally located.

As for the other hotels we considered, I kind of drooled over the Art Hotel, which is also centrally located. And the interior of Hotel im. Jana Pawla II is also pretty swank, situated along the river close to Cathedral Island. You can check out the best prices for Wroclaw hotels here.

Apartment-hotels are very popular in Poland, which can be a nice option if you’re traveling in a group. However, you won’t have the typical hotel amenities. When booking accommodation in Poland, remember to check for things like air conditioning, a lift, and parking. 

Parking in Wroclaw

While cars are allowed in most of the historic city center, streets are narrow and parallel parking is, well, a challenge. I highly recommend asking your accommodation about the best place to park. Our hotel had valet parking, which put our car in a garage, and it was well worth the extra fee. 

Much more information on driving and parking and how to plan a road trip in my upcoming two-week Poland road trip post!

How to get to Wroclaw on public transport

The major cities in Poland are well connected by buses and trains. While I generally prefer train travel, they run much less frequently than buses. When I was living in Wroclaw, I used Flixbus to travel to Krakow and Warsaw.